Please Critique

March: pre-emerge
April/May: apply ?-?-? depending on the results of the soil test.
June: 39-0-0
July: 39-0-0
August: 39-0-0
September: 39-0-0
October/November: apply high potassium & pre-emerge

Is the 0-0-7 Dimension or Stonewall? If so, put it down when you start seeing the forsythia bloom in your area.

I would get the soil sample done before you drop the pre emergent. Just to make sure that the potassium in the pre emergent doesn't skew the K on the soil test.

Your first low cut should be done when all threat of frost has passed. You want it low enough to remove as much of the dormant grass as possible, but not low enough you are hitting dirt with the mower.

Fall pre emergent will probably be in mid-Sept. When temps start falling off from the summer heat. I've read Dchall describe the timing as when those cold fronts start marching through almost weekly bringing colder temps and rain with them. Usually around mid-Sept.

With pre emergents, you aren't so worried about what the calender says, but more what the soil temps are. Weeds don't germinate in "March" or "September". They germinate when the temps and lights are right. You want your pre emergent down BEFORE that happens, but not so soon before that your pre emergent's effectiveness is diminished.

OK if you are going to use Pre-Emergence I suggest year round application, not just spring. How often you apply completely depends on the product you use. Something like Halts has a half life of 45 days, and who the heck wants to apply Pre-Emergence every 45 days?

If you use a product like Baricade, it has a half life of 90 days, so if you use it you apply every 90 days or 4 times a year.

If you use something like AMAZE it has a half life of 120 days or 3 times a year application. You gotta figure it out by making a choice. I will give you a hint, do not use Halt's

Ok when to apply the first application of per-emergence in spring. Well I assume you live south of DFW. If so it needs to go down real soon like by Valentines day. No later than March 1.

Moving on to the first mowing and fertilizer application. Once you are confident no more hard freezes and frost will happen, scalp down all the dormant Bermuda and rake up all the debris, or just use your bagging attachment if you have one. Your yard will look like He11, get over it, will not hurt it.

Then after you see it starting to green up, apply your first application of fertilizer. If you did a soil test, find a blend that closely matches it. In Central Tx It will be around a 3-1-2 ratio or good ole Lesco 15-5-10 or 20-5-10 slow release urea.

Then apply a good slow release urea (Lesco 000777)39-0-0 every 45 days up until about a month before you expect a frost.

Now keep in mind there are exceptions. If TX gets hammered like last summer, you do not want to go pushing a lot of fertilizer unless you have unlimited water supply, and if you live in TX that is not likely. Heck some areas do not even have lakes now, there gone. North and East TX are in good shape now with normal lake levels and lots of rain in the near term future. Central, South, and West Texas I am praying for you.

God Bless

TW

Let me get this straight, using the math below i will need 52 lbs of fertilizer to cover roughly 20,000 sq ft of yard.

(using 39-0-0 in 80lb bag)
80 lbs of fert*.39= 31.2 lbs of nitrogen
31.2*1000sq ft= 31,200 sq ft of coverage.

52*.39= 20.28 lbs
20.28*1000= 20,280 of coverage

Thanks for the feedback

Another way which I think is easier is 100 / N = #lbs/1000ft�

So 100/39 = 2.564 lbs/1000 ft�. So for 20 Kft� = 2.564 x 20 lbs = 51.29 lbs