ATekk wrote:
> I liked the idea of dormant seeding as this would be easier to maintain coming in since it is just a few bare spots as opposed to an entire lawn.

Since it's just a few bare spots, why not seed those bare spots using the regular seeding method--instead of dormant seeding.

Dormant seeding requires you to drop 2 to 3 times the normal amount of seed because lots of those seeds won't make good contact with the soil. Regular seeding makes good contact.

Lots of dormantly seeded seeds don't germinate.

Forgot to add: If you're using a cool-season mix, wait until soil temps are between 60 and 75 Fahrenheit, then seed into the soil regularly. This will probably be early spring or maybe a little before.

You'll have a better germination rate.

Thanks ZoysiaSod.

I was mainly planning the dormant approach because it was my understanding it would generally allow for the grass to come in a little earlier than if planted in the spring, ie be up and running with the rest of the lawn that is in great shape. Since these spots are ranging from 3'X3" to the biggest being ~8"x8" I am ok with overusing seed to better my odds of success. These spots were the result of a fungus attack last fall when it wouldn't stop raining for a week straight and I had just overseeded the entire lawn.

I will plan on scarping the seeds into the soil and adding a light layer of peat moss on top to keep them in good soil contact and prevent them from washing away.

So covering those points would you say it would be ok to drop that seed now? It has been an unusually warm winter and I have a feeling spring will be earlier this year also. This will hopefully allow the seed to germinate as the temps reach the right levels as opposed to me guessing when that would be.

Thanks for the help.

I'll let Texas-Weed, David in San Antonio, or Tiemco handle your question. They have more experience with dormant over-seeding than I do.

I had the exact same plan and now dilemma and also live in NJ! (Although the areas I was planning on dormant seeding aren't so much bare spots, but are just thinner than some other areas. Like you, I did overseed in the fall but didn't make enough progress to crowd out the weeds that come around at the time I'd be regular seeding in the spring.) I'll be listening in to hear if it's too late!

It is certainly not too late to dormant seed. Most cool season grasses will germinate in soil when temps are 50-55 degrees. It will be slower than a late summer germination, but that's OK. The whole point is letting the seed germinate on its terms. Soil moisture is usually pretty high in spring and dormant seeding eliminates the constant irrigation of a late summer seeding as the seeds will usually stay moist on their own. Generally you seed at a higher rate than the overseed rate, I would do halfway between overseed and new seeding rate. As stated before you usually want to seed before a good snow event, but this summer that hasn't been possible, so you can seed whenever except before a huge rain, as it can move the seeds around quite a bit. After the rain is good since the soil will be wet and the seeds will stick to it. If we get some cold night temps that freeze the top layer of soil this will help work the seeds in a bit. Dormant seeding is a nice option since there is no real work involved, just spreading some seed. If it doesn't work that well then no big deal. Just keep an eye on it when you get germination because a dry spell could kill the new grass, so then you will want to irrigate.

Thanks Timeco!

Looks like we might get some light rain this weekend so I will drop some after that and just keep an eye on it.

As far as Pre-M goes since its just around the corner, would applying a product containing Tupersan (I hear the Scotts starter with crab grass contains Tupersan?) be appropriate with the seedlings. My guess would be that they would start germinating at the time it would be to apply a Pre-M. If you would recommend a different approach please let me know. I was thinking of applying sometime late March-April 1 depending on the conditions obviously. I know it is usually best to apply just a Pre-M without the fertilizer but I thought this would help the new grass.

Thanks!

Tupersan is one of the only Pre-M's you can use on newly seeded turf, but it only controls 5 or 6 weeds (crabgrass being the most significant) and it is short lived, lasts about a month, so you will need to reply as crabgrass germinates throughout the late spring and summer months. It is also fairly expensive. Crabgrass germinates when soil temps are above 55-60 degrees for a full week, others use the blooming of forsythia to determine when to apply pre-M, either way it's a bit later than turfgrass germinates, but not by much. The fertilizer with Tupersan is fine, but you might be overfertilizing since you need to apply every month, for at least 2 months. Lesco might carry straight Tupersan.