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Tue, Feb 28, 12 at 21:49
| Just wanted to see if I could get a heads up on where I should be as far as the beginning of the season goes. I put down sod last year and had a 90% succes rate. Most areas took well until the end of the season when some of my neighbors weeds really started to invade my lawn. I pulled what I could and reseeded at in late september. Put down my winter fertilizers and here we are. Where do I go from here. I want to do whatever I can to make sure the weeds do not get out of hand this year. Can someone help me with a first year starter plan? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Where are you located and what type of sod did you put down? |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Thu, Mar 1, 12 at 0:31
| Water deeply and infrequently. This time of year that means one inch of water once a month. Gradually increase the frequency until in the hottest part of summer you are watering once every 7 days. Mulch mow at your mower's highest setting for most grasses. Lowest setting for bermuda, centipede, and bentgrass. Those two things will keep most of the weeds out of your lawn and they don't cost you anything. |
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- Posted by bighead262 none (My Page) on Fri, Mar 2, 12 at 13:40
| Maryland just south of Baltimore. Tall fescue sod. |
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| Before doing anything, a soil test would be a good idea to see what your soil is like. If it has low pH, you can lime now with the appropriate lime. Also any soil deficiencies can be attended to before summer. A preemergent herbicide will prevent germination of a high percentage of weed seeds that have yet to sprout in your yard. It is still a bit early, but with a preemergent it's probably better to be early rather than late. Many people apply their preemergents when the forsythia blooms, as that is a good indicator of soil temps in your area. Dimension (dithiopyr) is a good one, as is Stonewall (prodiamine). Dimension is a bit easier to find, Stonewall lasts longer. Lesco usually carries both. For fertilizing, you should wait till May. Since you are in MD, I would probably fertilize in early may. Use about a pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, and generally I split it, half quick release, half organic nitrogen with Milorganite. If you are deficient in P or K, a starter fertilizer would be a good choice, otherwise any of the synthetic high nitrogen fertilizers would be OK, but I would stay away from those which rely on chloride salts. Or you can apply organics monthly from now till summer, as they work slowly and will add organic matter to your soil. Many people apply organics every month the grass is growing, even summer, as it doesn't cause a stressful flush of growth. For any weeds that pop up you can spot spray with Weed B Gone Max and or Weed B Gone CCO, or hand pull if you have the time, again, it's up to you. The most important feedings will take place in the fall. If you are going the organic route, just continue with your monthly apps. If you want to use synthetics, another pound of N around mid to late September when the heat breaks, again in late October, and then your last feeding should be in late Nov./early Dec. when topgrowth has stopped, but the ground is not frozen. This feeding should be all quick release N, either Urea, ammonium sulphate or nitrate. |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Mon, Mar 5, 12 at 20:18
| What tiemco said...and what I said. The key to getting rid of weeds is growing a dense turf. With fescue that might mean reseeding every fall as the grass thins out from heat, drought, weed pressure, and/or disease. FALL is the time for that. Infrequent watering keeps weed seeds from sprouting and tall grass keeps any seedlings that do sprout from taking root. Usually just raising the mower to the highest setting changes everything. |
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| Here's an interesting article about mowing heights and tall fescue. http://buckeyeturf.osu.edu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&i d=1191&catid=1:latest-news&Itemid=170 |
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