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Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 10:51
| A giant oak tree shades our yard. The grass (lawn) is separated from the flower/bush bed by a metal in-ground barrier. The whole thing is irrigated. A couple of years ago, a "landscaper" planted ardisia japonica in the flower bed as a ground cover. It was ugly, so I tore it out...but it returned. Now it has invaded the grass, and there are thousands of little ardisia japonica plants coming up. I applied a pre-emergent herbicide, and also sprayed with WeedBGone. Neither worked. Any suggestions on what I can do? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 12:26
| Use RoundUp Pro formula. Mix at maximum recommended rates. Add a drop of Dawn Dish Washing liquid to act as a surfactant. The surfactant will allow the RU Pro to penetrate the waxy protective layer of the leaf. |
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- Posted by summeronmymind 7 (My Page) on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 14:55
| What about the grass? Won't the Round Up kill it? There are so many ardisia plants throughout the lawn that selective application by something that kills grass is impossible, as it would eradicate the entire lawn. |
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 23:29
| No selective herbicide will work on a woody type plant. Not many non-selective herbicides will work on woody type plants. You need a BRUSH KILLER like Round Up Pro or diesel fuel. You have two options 1. Nuke the lawn and start over. You make the choice. Sorry! |
This post was edited by texas-weed on Mon, Mar 4, 13 at 23:32
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Tue, Mar 5, 13 at 17:42
| Eradicate everything with RoundUp or live with it. Those are your only choices. |
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- Posted by serenitylawnservice none (My Page) on Tue, Mar 5, 13 at 21:25
| Look for a product with triclopyr, but be careful not to use one that has 2-4 D, such as Horsepower, as these formulations increase the speed, but often kill the plant tissue too quickly to allow for complete translocation to the root system. You can often find it with a label that refers to "brush killer" or "brush and stump killer." As long as you don't have a stoloniferous grass type, such as St. Augustine or Centipede, you can use this product safely. In fact, if you're using it on Fescue you can use the maximum rate for most labels and it is more effective on woody stemmed plants than most non-selective formulations, such as round-up. It comes in two forms, Amine and Ester, but both are very potent on woody stemmed plants and both need to be put away once the heat roles in. I use a product with Triclopyr, Fluxopyr and Mecoprop, which works exceptionally well for my needs. Keep in mind, that whatever you use, 100% effect is not going to happen in 1 application. Dupont came out with a product that was close 2 years ago, it was later recalled because it killed a few trees (not their fault really, it's just people over measure or don't measure at all). The root system is obviously established and what you're trying to accomplish is getting enough herbicide in through a small number of leaves, to translocate through the entire root system. So the ratio of leaf surface to root system will limit your results. To improve that, just let the ardisia grow out a little more than usual before spraying, which will allow you to get more herbicide into the root system at one time. The method of application is just as important as the product being applied. If you have timing questions, or need assistance, feel free to contact me. |
Here is a link that might be useful: contact page
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- Posted by summeronmymind 7 (My Page) on Wed, Mar 6, 13 at 9:45
| Thanks to everybody. I'm weighing my options. Even nuking the lawn will leave some ardisia in the flower beds, where sprigs are also appearing and where the whole problem started. If I decide on the nuke option, I'll post a progress report. |
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