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stslimited84

Seeding in S.E. Pa

stslimited84
10 years ago

Hi all,

My yard was too over run with weeds for pre emergent and fert to be useful in different areas so I tilled a good portion of it. I have a broadcast spreader and seed. What are the remaining steps to seeding and successfully regrowing the lawn?

Do i need to roll out the tilled area then spread the seed and cover? something else?

thanks

Comments (3)

  • dchall_san_antonio
    10 years ago

    Wow. Can you go back and untill the yard? Oh man this is a mess. Time is of the essence to have any surviving grass by July. The first problem is you tilled it. Over the next 3 years the fluffy soil will settle and will settle unevenly. So plan now to have an increasingly bumpy soil for the next three years. Then it should stop getting bumpier. I don't know where you got the advice to rototill for a lawn but that was some bad advice. I have lawn books written in the 1960s that say don't rototill.

    The next problem is this is spring followed very soon by summer. Any grass you plant now will not have mature enough roots to withstand the summer heat in July.

    The next problem is that this is spring, the same time when crabgrass seed is germinating. It germinates under the same conditions as the grass seed you want to put down. So if you put grass seed down now, the crabgrass will sprout first and get a real strong foothold before your lawn grass comes up. Crabgrass is a summer annual plant specifically designed by Nature to spread like crazy in the summer heat. Its roots are made for heat. When your lawn grass begins to weaken, the crabgrass will fill in quickly. By the end of July you might have 100% crabgrass.

    So the remaining steps are
    1. Don't do any of the stuff you have already done.
    2. Since you already have, roll with the punches.
    3. Put down some cheap seed and see what happens.
    4. Roll the seed down.
    5. Don't add any more soil or you will change your drainage. 6. If you feel the need to cover it with something, use compost at a rate of 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet. That is almost no compost when you get it out there. Then roll that down and start watering.
    7. Water lightly 3x per day for the next week (for rye), 2 weeks (for fescue) or 3 weeks (for Kentucky bluegrass).
    8. When 80% of the grass is up, start to back off on the frequency and go higher on the amount all at once. Ideally in the middle of summer you would be applying 1 inch of water every week and only once per week. But you won't have a mature lawn so you'll probably be watering every 3 days to keep it alive in the heat.

    Then in August you can reevaluate whether you need to kill out the crabgrass and start a new lawn with more expensive seed. Fall is really the time to seed grasses in the north.

  • stslimited84
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    1) Thank you for the reply
    2) I'm aware fall is the best time for redoing the lawn; however the temps are just starting to rise and the snow is finally gone so I thought i'd be ok
    3) The areas i tilled were 100% dead weeds anyway so I thought tilling would be the easiest way to expose the dirt so I could attempt to put seed down.
    4) it wasn't the entire lawn just about 30%.
    5) the areas i tilled were already bumpy from a previous renovation so Im not entirely concerned with that. obviously i dont want canyons but u get the idea.
    6) I'm going to roll and seed tomorrow and hope for the best.

    any other input?

    Thanks again!

  • dchall_san_antonio
    10 years ago

    Seed and roll, not the other way around.