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Soil Analysis Help

mop708
10 years ago

I had a soil analysis done and I am finding some conflicting information on the internet about what I need. Any advice would be truly appreciated!

My lawn is Kentucky Bluegrass and I'm in zone 5b. It was newly sodded in September 2011.

Organic Matter = 4.5%
Phosphorus, ppm P (Bray-1 Equiv.) = 26
Potassium, ppm K = 192
Magnesium, ppm Mg = 755
Calcium, ppm Ca = 2650
Sodium, ppm Na = 20
Cation Exchange Capacity, meq/100g = 20.1
pH = 7.4
Soluble Salts, mmho/cm = 0.2
Sulfur, ppm S = 12
Zinc, ppm Zn = 3.5
Iron, ppm Fe = 52
Manganese, ppm Mn = 40
Copper, ppm Cu = 2.7
Boron, ppm B = 1.0

The recommendation I received on the report was:
N-P-K-S
4-2-0-1

Thanks!!

Comments (7)

  • grass1950
    10 years ago

    What kind of conflicting info are you comming across?

  • grass1950
    10 years ago

    What kind of conflicting info are you comming across?

  • mop708
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Mainly on the phosphorus part. I've seen information that my level is low and I've also seen information that my level is right where it should be - which conflicts with the recommendation I got from the lab.

    I was also looking for some advice on anything that stands out as needing some repair. I know my ph is a little high, but I'm not sure if it warrants any action at this time.

  • grass1950
    10 years ago

    There are people experienced in advising on soil tests that drop by now and then. Just an FYI in the meantime: 7.4 isn't terrible but the optimum ph for mineral availability is 6.3. With cool season grasses, you don't want to have a ph over 7 as it will impede turf color, photosynthesis, and promote some diseases. The addition of sulfur will help lower ph.

    Edit: Phosphorus, like N is susceptible to leaching. There are a couple of schools on optimal macro/micro nutrient amounts. The most conservative of those schools recommend a P (Bray 2) level of 25ppm.

    This post was edited by grass1950 on Fri, Apr 12, 13 at 17:46

  • mop708
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks for the advice! Since 25ppm is on the conservative side, I guess I'll take the lab's advice and use a starter fertilizer. I know phosphorus isn't good for the environment, so I probably won't use the recommended level, but I'll add a little.

    I thought I read that you should only add sulfur after aerating. I do plan on aerating this year in the fall, so I'll look into it then.

    Thanks again!

  • dchall_san_antonio
    10 years ago

    Where do you live? There is a zone 5b all around the world over hill and dale with good soil and bad. The USDA zones are only used to select new plants. They have nothing to do with fixing issues.

    Who did your test?

    Do you have any obvious issues with your lawn?

    How have you been fertilizing? When and with what?

  • mop708
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    I live about 50 miles south of Chicago.

    The test was done by A & L Great Lakes Labs.

    Overall, the lawn is not too bad, but it never really stayed a nice green color last year. I assumed that had to do with the drought last year, but I did water regularly. The grass is also not as thick or full as it was the year before.

    I fertilized with regular Scott's Turf-builder 4 times last year. Early spring, late spring, late summer and mid fall. I plan on adjusting the schedule to late spring, early fall, and late fall.

    This is my first lawn, so I'm trying to get my head around all the information out there.