I'd be very interested to know how it goes for you. I won't be applying for a least a couple days because it's raining non-stop here. Thanks and good luck.

Yes, I am aware of how weed and feed works, and unfortunately it's not a very good way to control weeds. The first rule of synthetic fertilizers is don't apply to wet grass and let them sit there yet weed and feed has you apply it to wet grass and let it sit there. You applied almost three times as much fertilizer as you were supposed to, which will only increase your chances of burn. I always recommend using fertilizer separate from weed killers, it just makes more sense for a number of reasons. In the future it would be better to use a liquid weed killer that you apply with a hose end sprayer or tank sprayer.

Grass1950, the amount of fertilizer you would lose to outgassing in dry conditions is very small. If you don't water, the dew that forms overnight will dissolve some of the fertilizer and increase your chances for burn, especially with the amount the OP put down. I hope everything thing turns out OK for the OP, but to lessen the odds of damaging her lawn it would be much better to water in what was put down.

I'd say that this "I always recommend using fertilizer separate from weed killers, it just makes more sense for a number of reasons." pretty much says AGAINST.

As far as a sprayer I purchased this this year and like it. So far is well made

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N67I/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

No. Sure you are going to get tons of growth, but I'll take that over burn any day. It's about a month early for the spring feeding above the transition zone, so all that nitrogen shouldn't stress the grass too much (not sure where the OP lives), Just be sure you mow often enough to keep it at the level you want. Nitrogen is fairly transient in most soils, so some will leach away as well. Fertilizer burn happens because the fert ingredients are salts, and with only a small amount of water around, like dew, the salts pull water out of your grass, basically dehydrates it. If you give it a good watering you prevent this from happening.

"So if I understand tiemco, he is recommending AGAINST the Scott's Plus-2."

Yes, I am against Weed and Feed products for a few reasons. They make you apply synthetic fertilizer to wet grass without watering it in. They make you combine applying synth. fertilizer at the same time you want to kill weeds. What if I want to kill weeds in early April? They make you apply weed killer in dry form (liquid form is much better) and to the whole lawn, even if you only have weeds in some areas. It's much better to apply liquid weed killers directly to the weeds. If your whole lawn has weeds throughout, then get the appropriate product (Weed B Gone Max is great for most lawn weeds, CCO should handle the rest) and apply it with a hose end sprayer. If you only have a few weeds in your yard, use a tank sprayer and apply the weed killer directly to those weeds. You will get better results and use much less chemical. Weed and Feed sells so well because most people are gullible and lazy. They want to do the least work possible, and they believe everything that it says on the bag. People see that and are like "All I have to do is one application and I'm done? I'll take it!" The best thing Weed and Feed does is make money for Scotts.

Yes. If you had done this in late June, July or August, it could have had some negative effects on your lawn. Since you did it now, just get ready for lots of growth. Fertilizer burn will be apparent tomorrow, or the next day depending on the severity, and whether or not you watered it in.

"My main problem is Amur Maple seedlings covering a huge portion of my front yard. The lawn in that area is not very green or thick, and I wonder if the seedlings are robbing the lawn of nutrients. I tried some Weed-B-Gon tonight, which previously worked wonders for creeping charlie, but was not kind to the lawn. I need something that isn't going to totally wipe out the lawn."

If you read the label on Weed B Gone and follow the directions you shouldn't have problems. Not sure why you feel the need to treat tree seedlings as they will disappear after a few mowings. I get a lot of sycamore seedlings every spring, I don't worry about them, and they disappear in due time. The only way they would be robbing the lawn of nutrients if there were thousands of them throughout the lawn.

As I said, the bag contained 28% of nitrogen by weight. Of this total 12.88 lbs of nitrogen, certain proportions will be fast release and/or slow release. The reason I said ol' scotty probably didn't put more than 6 lbs. of fast release (picked as a worse case scenereo--most certainly much, much less than that)as it would be bad public relations to sell a product that they direct be aplied to damp/wet grass and not recommend watering for 24 hrs if it was going to burn the grass due to a high percentage of fast release nitrogen. (plus, slow release is almost idiot proof -no offense to you intended- but let's face it, in a world where people need to be given warnings not to use hair dryers in the shower.) Consequestly, it likely contains mostly, if not all, slow release. You can determine what proportion of the nitrogen is slow release by reading the chemicals listed on the bag. For example "coated" urea is slow release-do a google search of the chemicals.

13 lbs. of fast release on on 5000 sq ft. would be disaster (ask anyone who has spilled a bag of fertilizer on their lawn.) Short of sucking it all up, the only possible remedy would have been copious amounts of water in the hope of creating run off (not part of the good neighbor policy) or leaching the nitrogen below the root zone.

On the other hand, the coatings on slow release nitrogen work through (but not limited to) slow solubility (lots of water), microbal break down (warm/hot temps), or oxydation of the coating which allows release of the nitrogen over time. A lawn should be able to absorb the 2 1/2 lbs of nitrgen per 1k sq. ft. over the extended period without much adverse effect.

tiemco, my rational for not watering was that if the slow release (which I'm surmizing is the vast majority of the nitrogen in turfbuilder) is soluble coated (another guess on my part as it is the cheapest process to produce slow release), water would only accelerate its release.