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| It�s been raining almost every day for a few weeks, luckily we have 5 dry days ahead. Early morning today, I noticed some cotton like substances about the size of a nickel in a few places on the grass blades. I am going to use Bayer Natria Disease control before anything gets out of hand since I have some in the garage.
Do you apply right before mowing or right after mowing? The label doesn't state any wait times before or after mowing or a time of day. Is it better to apply in the early Every product is different so I thought I would ask.morning, or when the sun is high, or just before dark? Also I didnt see pythium bligth listed on the bottle, which might be what I have. Would like some opinions please, thank you. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Wed, May 16, 12 at 21:30
| Where do you live? What kind of grass do you have? Can you post a picture of the offending cotton like substance? |
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| I haven't used Natria, but I understand it to be more of a natural preventative, not a curative. It is probably too late to cure the areas with mycellium with Natria, but it might offer some protection to the unaffected grass. I would try to remove the areas of mycellium by hand with scissors to limit spread from dew and mowing. Then mow late in the day when the lawn is dry as possible, bagging the clippings, and then apply the Natria. |
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| maryland fescue it looked like the pic in the link below but the size of a nickel. Found about 5 of them just by looking around in a few seconds. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Here it is
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| What do you use as a curative? Concerned about applying the natria late in the day because I use a hose end sprayer and the lawn will remain wet all night....but I guess since I would be applying Natria, it could be okay this one time. |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Wed, May 16, 12 at 22:41
| Does not look like a disease. Could they be spider webs? Or could they be webs from sod webworms? If they are spider webs, then leave them alone. If they are webworms, then the solution is a product called BT Worm Killer. BT is a disease immediately stops a caterpillar from moving. Since eating is a movement, they stop everything and die from starvation in a day or two. A $10 bottle of anything with BT in it is a lifetime supply. I little goes a long way. |
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| I disagree with dchall. That does look like fungal mycellium, and if I'm not mistaken, some of the blades are yellowing and becoming thin in that picture. Sod webworms produce tunnel like structures at the base of grass, not on top. There are some fungicides on the market you can try on the diseased areas. Home Depot carries a product in a black hose end bottle called Immunox that is a pretty good fungicide, and it's reasonable. They also carry a granular product you can use, comes in an orange bag, I think Scotts makes it. It's not bad, but it's not the most effective. You can also find fungicides at Lesco/John Deere Landscapes or online. One of the best is Heritage. It is a broad spectrum antifungal that pretty much covers most lawn diseases. They also carry Eagle, which is good as well. They are both available as liquids and granules. Fungicides are pretty potent, and can kill most of the fungi, good and bad, in your soil, so I would use them sparingly, but sometimes they are the only course of action. |
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