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Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

Posted by onthebrinck 6 Central New Jersey (My Page) on
Sat, Jun 11, 11 at 7:04

I'm not quite sure why, but I have a near perfect lawn. The lawn is about 50% of a 3/4 acre property. There's an occasional weed or two, a few square feet of clover here and there, and when it gets really hot, there are near perfect circles of browning grass around the maple trees. I'm wondering if doing nothing at all will change all that. The lawn is a typical mixture of grasses for NJ. I've used Scotts #1 pre-emergent and #2 weed killer.

I am a very diligent mower, I 'comb' the lawn twice-annually with a push tining tool, and I scout the lawn every day for anything out of the ordinary.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

sounds like you have a fungus


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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

When you get circles like that, it is called fairy ring. Sometimes you get mushrooms growing at the rim - hence the name. Here is a link to some pictures. It is caused by fungal disease. Whether you treat it or not depends on whether it kills the turf or does not pass your own personal expectations.

How often do you water and for how long?
How high/low do you mow?
How often do you fertilizer and with what?


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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

Are the near circles in the areas of the maple trees or are the centers the trees? The reason I ask is that the causes and treatments are going to be different.

If the centers of the circles are the trees, it's likely that the trees are using too much water. Some maples are notorious for having shallow roots, and may be using enough water that the grass can't thrive when there's not enough rain.

If the circles are just near the trees, a fungus is more likely, although I would expect it to manifest in wetter weather rather than dry weather.


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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

OMG --- I've completely done this wrong!!! There is nothing wrong with my lawn, nothing at all --- I was making a point of how few things there are. My real question was can I stop weed and feed, if there is no apparent need for it? Or is it always needed as a preventive measure?

BTW: the circles under the maples are nothing more than the grass competing with them for moisture during drought conditions or extreme heat --- the grass turns emerald green once there's enough rain and the temps moderate.

Again my apologies for not being clear.


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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

LOLOL, no problem. Some of us tend to see problems when there are none at all. The clue for me was the term, "perfect circles." That always means fairy rings. In your case, bpgreen understood what you were saying. I missed that.

Still you have the occasional weed and patches of clover. Some people find that ghastly.

Okay, so you do have a question. Scott's is selling fertilizer all year long so they can pay for their executive's boats and second homes. Now you are here and getting the benefit of all of our collective experience reading these forums for 10 years. During those years hundreds of people have come and gone but a few of us are still here. Hopefully we remember what we've read and learned.

The experience with fertilizers is that 2/3 to 3/4 of all your annual nitrogen should be applied in the fall. The rest should be applied in late spring after the spring flush of growth has abated. That is not the Scott's agenda. If you are using Scott's products, fine - just understand that the timing is a consideration for the health of your grass. Applying the spring fert after the flush of growth (Memorial Day) will carry your lawn until late summer (Labor Day). Then an app on Labor Day will carry you to Thanksgiving (third and final app). I use these days because they are easy to remember. They are not cast in concrete at all. Do what comes natural to you, but do not apply later than Memorial Day for fear of burning the grass. Applying in early spring will amplify the spring flush so that you have to mow 3x per week to keep it from covering your house. So those are your parameters and the reasons for the schedule.

If you are watering in addition to rainfall, the general consensus is to water once a week in the heat of summer. Water long enough so the grass will survive a full week. Getting to that point can sometimes be a project in itself. In my case we are having an extraordinarily hot (temps near 100), dry (4 inches of rain since October), and arid (very low humidity) summer. Normally I would water once a week for 3-4 hours per zone. This summer I am going to a 7-hour schedule starting tomorrow. Your mileage will vary due to the above factors plus shade, sun, clouds, wind, soil type, grass type, grass mowing height, and your sprinkler's ability to provide water.


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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

Excellent advice, dchall! I'll switch to your fertilizing schedule now. Do you think that pre-emergent and weed killer are required, even when there is no evidence of crab grass or weeds? BTW: We tend to average about 1/2 inch of rain per week here; I've only had to water 2x this Spring when we had a dry spell and 93F temps. Last year we had 1/2 inch of rain for all of the time between Mother's Day and Labor Day, and temps +15 above normal --- coming from Texas, you'd probably feel right at home --- lol.


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RE: Need to Feed? Doing nothing at all ...

I will not answer your question concerning weed and feed since dchall is providing adequate information in this thread; however, I will give you some additional information to ponder. Before I came to this site, I was a "synthetic robot", applying fertilizers and pesticides from the big companies such as Scotts and Lesco, simply because that is the world I lived in for many years. After reading on this site regularly for the past year, and reading the FAQ section on the organic lawn care site of GardenWeb, I have completely changed my approach to my home lawn care. I still use RoundUp and Weed B Gon, but I now topdress with compost and use organic fertilizers only. I seeded TTTF/KBG last October and I still have not watered my lawn since last November, in spite of the hot, dry conditions here in central N.C. For me, the best weed control is going to be a healthy, dense, thick stand of cool-season turfgrass.

I have to give kudos to dchall for planting the seed in my head and cultivating the organic approach to lawn care here on this site. It certainly has worked for me.


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