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Damn got the Crabgrass!
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Posted by
wmarkw GA (
My Page) on
Mon, Jun 27, 11 at 8:29
| I was prepared this year!! I studied up and have been reading the TX bible for bermuda grass and everything. I put down 10K sqft of Halts on 3/1/11 right when I was supposed to, all the blooming signs were there. So not sure if I missed the "window" too early or too late. The amount I put down was overkill. So I'm frustrated. Just fertilzed last week and we got a bunch of rain (finally) and was watering like I was supposed to. Then this weekend I noticed the leafy, broad looking leaves forming everywhere in my front yard. It happened last year too but I didnt do a pre-emergent as I was still learning. My goal now is to continue letting my bermuda grow thicker and taller and try to choke the crabgrass out and then pull or MSMA the ones that fully develope.
Should I put down some Halts in Sept/Oct as well as in early Spring? I read that some where. I have basic builders bermuda so not sure what strand. Just ranting! |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| what kind of bermuda? what height are you cutting at before and how how are you going to let it grow long? Bermuda likes to be cut short and often. This is what causes it to spread and choke out the other plants. A.P. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Lol...I feel your pain. Here's the part they didn't tell you. The active ingredient in Halts is Pendimethalin, which will only provide you with about 60-75 days of crabgrass control. I'm sure you did everything correctly EXCEPT to re-apply Pendimethalin around early to mid May. Unless you already have MSMA on your shelf, you won't find it for purchase as its production has been discontinued. If the crabgrass is still at, or less than, the 3 leaf stage, you can apply Dimension herbicide at label rate to control crabgrass for the remainder of the season. Dimension has pre-emerge and post-emerge activity so you may be able to control the currently emerging crabgrass as well as any crabgrass that is yet to germinate this year. If the crabgrass is more mature than 3 leaf stage, then you can spray Drive herbicide (quinclorac) for post-emerge crabgrass control. The way to grow your bermuda thicker is to keep mowing it low (1"-1.5"). Growing it taller will not allow it to thicken. After having said all this, I just re-read your post. Your description is of "leafy, broad looking leaves". Are you sure it is crabgrass? Could you post a picture for definite weed ID? |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Thanks for the replies. Its for sure crabgrass. I probably did not describe it very well. As for the bermuda, I'm assuming its the basic bermuda grass. I have tifway in the back and I'm confident the builder did not lay that in the front. As for my cutting heights, I'm not trying to have it at 4" or anything but trying to get that dense feel/look to it. I'm almost there. Last year I cut on the lowest setting because of the crabgrass as I wanted the yard to look ok but it was close to being scalped; this year I'm cutting it on the middle setting and it looks good. I do have 2 more bags of halts sitting in my garage. I should have re-applied in early May. Should I put it out there now or am I too later? I know it wont kill establish but maybe I can prevent the august crab grass? Also I looked up the Dimension products and wow they are expensive. Is this active ingredient in anything I would find at Lowes or HD? Thanks. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| If the CG is advanced like you say, and the temps are above 90 in your area, there is nothing you can really do as it is too late. Adding Halts now will only help prevent any more seed from germinating, but will not do squat for the existing CG. Dimension will do about the same and control very early CG. But the window has completely closed on post emergence herbicides as it is too hot. Best advice is keep the Bermuda cut short and often @ around 1-inch or as low as your rotary mower will cut without scalping. In addition use year round Pre-emergence as prevention (every 3 to 4 months depending on which product you use) is the best approach rather than waiting until you have a problem. It is like smoking, the best cure of lung cancer is not to smoke to begin with. Once you have it too bad, you are going to die. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Before you complain too much about the price of Dimension, remember that it's once every six months instead of once every 60 days. Not to mention that I have not seen anything that works better than Dimension. My problem with the Dimension products is that I find it impossible to find it without fertilizer included. I don't need fertilizer on my Bermuda lawn in late February and I don't want it in September. I use organic fertilizers and would prefer to buy just plain old pre-emergent without the added product. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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Here is a link that might be useful: Crabgrass Preventer2 with Dimension
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Actually, you need to apply Dimension every 10 weeks or so. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| I apply Dimension in late February and mid September. No crabgrass. Your mileage may vary. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| I'm surrounded by it, so I probably have to use more. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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My neighbors seem to be raising it as a cash crop. Jon |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| It is a frustrating weed but in my experience the only way to get rid of it for good is to pull it. Make sure your yard gets a good watering and then get down and pull it ALL up - roots and all. You'll have some divets in your yard but the crabgrass will disappear totally and the grass will eventually fill in. It took me two years to completely remove all of it without using any chemicals. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| The other product that TW has mentioned over the years is Amaze by Green Light. I've used it and it's fantastic. I only get CG/weeds on the edges now where the seeds blow over from the neighbors. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Thanks for all the replies. I have researched the chemicals you all have listed. My issue is that the crabgrass is in its infant stage so there are not many large clumps to pull out. A lot of it looks like feathers in the grass; so I guess I need to wait for it to completely form in order to yank out. I would take a pic but my camera is on its way back from repairs; so maybe by Wed night or Thrs. One yard expert I talked to seems to think that because I did not lay down Halts in 2010 that it could take a year or 2 to completey get rid of it. So I'm gonna Halts in Sept to help w/ winter weeds, use the Scotts winterizer stuff in OCT, then Halts in late Feb/early MAR and again in late APR/early May. I might try the Dimension stuff though now that I think about it. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| if you catch it early, i have had great success with weed b gon max with crabgrass control. i spot spray the crabgrass and its dead in a week. for some reason it doesn't work for everyone, but for me it's great. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Not to mention that I have not seen anything that works better than Dimension. For Bermuda grass you might look into AMAZE |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| I have half a bag of AMAZE in my storage shed. That means that I've used it somewhere but I don't remember much about it. I chose Dimension because henbit is specifically listed as a controlled weed. Henbit is the reason that I apply in September. I have shied away from AMAZE because henbit isn't specifically named. So, for those who use AMAZE, how does it do with henbit? |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| I'm with jdo053103 who posted about pulling it up. I had a huge patch of it. Every evening after work, I'd sit on the lawn and pull the stuff out. It was actually rather relaxing and therapeutic after a rough day in the office :) There were a lot of gaps left after that, but I reseeded and things are just fine now. Pesticides are no longer allowed in my town, but as long as the lawn is dense it pops up only along paths and cracks etc. It's not a big chore as long as the patches are small. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| Ill just throw you my experience. For a few years, I thought I had CG, it would die with MSMA. Since you can not get that product, I stared to use quinclorac with a per-emergent. To my surprise, I mis-identified and I have Dallisgrass. The problem with DG, it doesnt die each winter so I had a pretty bad infestation. Through experimenting, I have found that fusilade and triclopyr in a mixture works great on the DG, kills it in one application and doesnt harm my zoysia. I applied this in spot treatments. I would wait a month and go again. Now its to hot for it to work, so in the fall, Ill continue with my battle. Im not saying what you have is DG, just giving my experience to share. |
RE: Damn got the Crabgrass!
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| A couple years ago on another forum there was a discussion about the use of baking soda to kill crabgrass in St Augustine lawns. Cactus, one of the members of that forum, decided to test the theory. Fortunately for the rest of us, he took lots of pictures and created a movie for YouTube. This video link of cactus' work was recently posted on the organic forum. Sound is low so turn your volume up. Dallisgrass (a perennial) is quite often mistaken for crabgrass (an annual). Here are some pictures. The image above is dallisgrass. The image below is crabgrass. You can see how they would be confused.
Here is the most distinguishing feature - the seed head. The image above is the dallisgrass seed head. Note it has three spikes on a stalk.
This is a crabgrass seed head. It is a brush type of seed head with anywhere from 2 to 9 spikelets.
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