You are off to a bad start, sorry to say. The only good sign is the mushrooms, but you have much more serious issues.

First of all you seeded in the spring instead of the fall. If you are going to overseed, always do that in the fall. Why? Because if you do it in the spring, you get crabgrass. Why else? Because grass roots need at least 6 months of life before they are sturdy enough to withstand the summer heat. I hate saying this but by mid July you will have mostly crabgrass in your lawn as the new grass dies off. Seeding in the next few weeks will guarantee that result.

I am assuming you live in the north. The common lawn grasses in the north are fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Fescue grows in clumps and does not spread fast. KBG grows out and covers like a carpet. It will easily fill in between all clumps of fescue; however, not this year. Check the guaranteed analysis on your seed bag and you should see both of these grass types listed. The fescue would be for the shade or sun and the KBG would be for the sun only. Fescue remains green all winter and KBG becomes brown as it goes dormant. Do not think it is dead.

You overseed with fescue when the fescue areas become thin. You only do that in the fall (late August) after the crabgrass has stopped germinating. This timing gives your new grass plenty of time to harden off and tolerate the summer of 2014.

What I would do, since you have already made this bed, is to treat it like it is the perfect lawn - warts and all. Learn to water, mow, and fertilize so the new grass next fall will be off to a great start. Read and read and read in this forum for tips as to how to water, mow, and fertilize. Here is something to get you started.

2. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

3. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above.

4. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 4 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above.
   

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.

I only overseeded because of the bald areas from the summer heat last year. I do have to say, our yard does look better than the neighbors around us. I was planning on waiting until the fall, but went ahead and did it early to cover the areas. Most of them have been covered.

I did water 3 times a day, for 2 weeks after overseeding. I mow high, and mulch everything.

Since you say the lawn is basically a wash until next year, should I go ahead and lay organic fertilizer a few more times this year, and a winter blend this Fall? Or should I overseed again this Fall and wait until Spring to use weed control?

Thanks.

Yeah I would definitely fertilize more. Most importantly after your first mowing in the spring put down a crabgrass pre emergent herbicide. I'm kind of in the same boat you're in some of my grass went dormant from heat stress and the crabgrass moved in. However I think it's good to seed all season long but fall seeding is the most important. Keep in mind after your first mowing in the spring when you put down your pre emergent herbicide for the crabgrass do not put down grass seed it won't germinate. The pre emergent herbicide puts a barrier in the soil to stop crab grass and other seed from germinating. I would wait at least 3 weeks before seeding after the pre emergent. It's all about timing if you don't get this right you'll be disappointed every season