You are the poster child for the second reason why we shy away from rototilling for turf: weeds. Rototilling brings up weed seeds long buried under the surface. Then when you start watering, the weed seeds germinate and you get a real even coverage of the weeds - much like yours.

The first reason for not rototilling will sneak up on your over the next three years as the soil settles. The soil will settle to the profile of the unrototilled soil just below where the tiller blades fluffed up the soil. This leaves you with a bumpy surface causing the mower to bump along (at best) and scalp (at worst).

Yes you need to start both lawns over. If you have only one sprig of creeping Charlie, you will soon have full coverage. You need to do this in the fall which is the proper time to seed a lawn. Start in August to get it done and the grass growing well before Thanksgiving. You need to start early spraying with RoundUp to get all the Charlie killed out. It might take three attempts, each one week apart, with daily water in between to germinate all the weed seeds in the lawn.

What kind of grass did you seed?
Where do you live?
Do you have much shade?

I used a seed from online-
http://www.outsidepride.com/seed/grass-seed/fescue-grass-seed/combat-extreme-cold-climate-fescue-mix.html

I live in Ellensburg WA. Shrub step climate. Hot/dry summers, colder winters. We see upper 90s-100s in summer, low teens and single digits in winter.

Very little shade in my yard.

For what it is worth, I have a ton of clear plastic that I could use for solarization. I figure'd it'd be worth a try since I've heard it works well for killing everything in the top 6-8" of soil.

And I greatly appreciate the help!!!!!!