First Question: Does this appear to be two different types of fescue or should I have soil tests completed in the different sections?

Probably not two different types. I am betting the areas near the curb are holding water better than the rest of the lawn. Perhaps you get a lot of run off from the yard that collects along the curb, and maybe the soil is a bit better there. A comprehensive soil test would be a good idea for the whole yard with the majority of the samples coming from the problem areas. I see definite areas of drought stress (when the grass folds up tight and looks gray) in the other parts of the yard.

Second Question: Can a fungal disease be present? How quick to they act at killing grass?

Sure can, especially in hot humid weather. Oklahoma is a tough place to grow a cool season grass, even TTTF. I get fungal disease in CT on my TTTF, it's just the nature of the beast. Pathogenic fungi are always present in your soil, and they affect your grass when the conditions are favorable for fungal growth (typically hot and humid) and when grass is stressed it is more susceptible. Those track marks can be fungal in nature, or they can be fertilizer burn. If you didn't apply fertilizer recently then it is probably fungal. The mower wheels can push the grass down and it will prevent those areas from drying out, especially if you water right after mowing or mow a wet lawn (which you shouldn't do anyway). You should also be watering just before sunrise, do not water in the late afternoon or at night.

Thanks tiemco!

I plan on aerating my whole yard and adding 1/4 inch compost to the surface before seeding. Its hard, compact red clay so go figure. Possibly more than one pass. I also considered some gypsum as I've heard this will help break up clay or help with water retention.

I'll research some fungicide to try to apply that. Once the grass has been 'killed' by the fungus, is it gone gone or will it spring back to life?

P.S. I think the last post was around Sept, 2010. How's your TTTF lawn re-do? Did your varieties hold up well?

Yes, do the lawn multiple times with the aerator to achieve good results. Technically speaking, spring and fall is the time to aerate, though.

I believe it depends on how bad the fungus is if it will actually kill the plant or if it will come back the next year. I have had brown patch bad for several years and every spring, it pretty much comes back beautiful. However, I have always used fungicides, as well (not a ton). Last year I had some patches die, but I think that may have been due, at least in part, to a lack of water.

From what I have heard, it is not possible to get the "dead" grass back this year.

tiemco: Very, very nice. Thanks for posting the visual results of your efforts. A beautiful lawn is a great source of pride. Congratulations!

Thanks. In case anyone is wondering, I don't mow on the "highest setting". I keep it around 3 inches, and if a few consecutive days of rain is forecast I will cut it to around 2.25 to 2.5 inches.

tiemco, is the 3 inches measured against the grass? Like you stick a ruler into the grass and measure?

No, I measure from the garage floor to the mower blade. I generally set it around 2.75 since the wheels will be sitting on about a .25 cushion of grass while mowing.

tiemco: I also notice that you choose to grow your turf right up to the base of the trees instead of mulching around them. It certainly seems to work for you.

tiemco, would you mind taking a ruler out there and measuring the height of the grass blades after you mow?? I think it is going to be the same, but that cushion of grass is the variable in this.

Thanks for all the responses to the questions!

I will surely get a soil test. Would it be advisable to get a few 'cores' from around the yard? I don't mind sending in a small group of them but if they're $20 each, then it might be a little cheaper if one sample could greatly represent the whole yard.

Grass looks great tiemco! Those blades did thicken up eventually. You said that you saw some spreading. How noticeable is it?

"Would it be advisable to get a few 'cores' from around the yard? I don't mind sending in a small group of them but if they're $20 each, then it might be a little cheaper if one sample could greatly represent the whole yard."

Most yards are pretty consistent with regard to soil, so I would take 12-15 samples from around the yard, probably focusing in on where the grass doesn't look as good as it does near the curb. Then I would break up the samples, air dry it for a day or two, pick out all the roots, dead grass, and rocks you can, then send it off to Logan Labs. Most people do two samples, front yard and back yard, but if you want to do it all together to save some money that's ok too.

"Grass looks great tiemco! Those blades did thicken up eventually. You said that you saw some spreading. How noticeable is it?"

It's very noticeable in that the lawn is just thicker than it has ever been. It's mostly due to tillering, but I have seen some daughter plants that have spread via rhizomes. I had a very wet spring this year, and I was cutting lower than usual before long periods of rain. I am of the opinion that this helped thicken up the lawn as it had some areas in early spring that were somewhat sparse.

Tiemco your lawn look awsome can tell me were can I purchase some firecracker,faith and cochise,also what do you think about adding a little blue grass in the mix.
Thanks Robb

Thanks Robb, Firecracker LS from Oliger's seed (http://oligerseed.com/Products/lawn_seed.html#H)
Faith and Cochise IV from the Hogan Company (http://www.thehogancompany.us/id15.html). Adding bluegrass would be great if you have enough sun for it. Where you live you might want to try a Mid-Atlantic type like Zinfandel, Cabernet or Touche, but there are dozens of good ones that will blend well with TTTF.

tiemco Im curios doing all over top seeding witch I have 1/4 acre wich isnt bad but it all kentucky 31 crap would you aerate or run a slit seeder being that I am switching over 2 better cultivars. Thanks Robb

No offense Robb, but it's a bit difficult to understand exactly what you are asking but I think I get the gist. I would probably kill off all the K-31 if it was my yard. If you overseed or slit seed the cultivars I used into a K-31 yard, the grass will be very inconsistent with regard to color and texture. It is highly probable that your lawn will look WORSE if you do that. The K-31 will probably prevent germination and it will grow like crazy when you are watering for the first few weeks. K-31 has its place in this world, it's really tough stuff and survives drought and disease, but it makes a lousy looking yard.

What part of OK are you in.? Unless you live in the Panhandle or Northwest OK, you would be well advised to give up on Fescue or any other cool season grasses.

You have Zone 7 listed which indicates you are likely south of I-40. If that is the case growing Fescue or cool season grasses is going to be an endless cycle of planting in the fall, and the grass dying off in the summer. Even if say in Tulsa Fescue is futile unless you have a lot of mature trees and unlimited water. Even Paul James gave up trying to grow Fescue in Tulsa

Well TW, sometimes I want to rip up warm grass and grow perennial rye grass from Sept till May and take summer off from mowing! :)

Well TW, sometimes I want to rip up warm grass and grow perennial rye grass from Sept till May and take summer off from mowing!

I hear you Lou. Have heard from family and friends it is brutal in TX and OK this year. Not as bad as 1980, but still hot and no rain since late May except popcorn showers in the afternoon.

But hey don't complain, where I live now in Prescott we have had a very wet year so far. We have had a whole inch of rain/snow since New Years Day. No 100 degree days yet. Have come close, but not yet :-)

Heck we had heavy frost and hard freezes until the end of May. Got no mators at all. They froze to death.

Hey TW! Thanks for the concern!

I'm in OKC north of I-40. I have large shade trees that block out the sun during the midday (noon-3pm), except in the back yard and one small section in the front. But more trees are being planted this fall to help shade us out mid-day. The morning sun and afternoon sun shouldn't be too brutal on the TTTF. Plenty of businesses and homes around this area actually are able to keep fescue year round in full sun, no shade, without constantly overseeding (i'm still looking into finding out what this 'magical' grass cultivar is...) We have a water well that can draw enough to keep it watered regularly and often. But yes, having almost forty days of 100+ degrees is hard. I've even seen some bermuda around town trying to go dormant... Nothing in the forecasted high's less than 100 for the time coming too.

But I'm going to try the TTTF still. I'm hoping these new ones will be able to take the heat and sun. I'm open for suggestions on mixing in other varieties, however I still would like the green all year approach. Thanks!