Bermuda should not be hurt at all by adding more on top of 1-0-1 fertilizer.

If you are not already mowing at 1 to 2 inches, then you should lower your mower.

If shade is an issue on any of your lawn, especially where it is thinning, then you should get ready to plant St Augustine in those places. No matter what you apply, nothing will substitute for 8 hours of sunlight on bermuda.

Oh okay thank you for that information. I do have a problem in some areas due to trees and shade. I didn't know about the St Augustine as my go-to for those shady areas. I've got the Bermuda Bible info so, I can really appreciate and understand how Bermuda acts now. I used to live in the North and it was simple Kentucky Blue. I was having a terrible time understanding this Bermuda before I found this site. I'll read up on St Augustine. I just thought I was SOL on the thin / bare spots.
Thank You

This is the side of the house where it doesn't get much sun but also it's not green in the earlier pic. It's being cut 1.5 inches. I'm thinking it needs to be cut more often also.

This post was edited by ken404 on Sun, Jun 22, 14 at 13:10

This is a close up of the front. A bit yellow.

If you look at the recommendation, it's basically the same as the bermuda bible: 1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. Last year I used 46-0-0 fertilizer. I got that after reading the bermuda bible and from texasweed's recommendation of using a pure nitrogen fertilizer. After getting it, I found out it was primarily fast release. I made a post on here about it and texasweed said it was almost like candy for lawns. It would give it a real quick nitrogen boost but would most likely be gone in a week or so depending upon rain. I ditched the fertilizer this year for a 29-0-3 fertilizer with iron. Between that, milorganite, and I am just starting to use alfalfa pellets, I have seen great results this year.

If you want to use one of the recommended fertilizers, I would go with the 34-0-0. To answer your question, you will be fine applying it monthly from now through August.

I was reading another post it was from Texas Weed. I wonder if he still recommends Bionide over Milorganite for greenery? That post was a little older. I'm hoping he chimes in here. I ended up getting that 34-0-0. I'm now questioning the Milorganite vs Bionide? Sherm1082 I'm trying to get some of the good results as well. Thanks for your recommendation.

Ken, I haven't seen texasweed post on here in awhile.

As far as Bonide, you may have to order it online. I looked on amazon and I believe they have some but it says manufacturer has discontinued. Last year, I remember seeing the post you referenced and I told myself I was going to get some Bonide. For the life of me, I can't remember why I didn't do it. Milorganite is some good stuff though and I like the fact it's organic. If you decide to go with Bonide, let us know the results.

Well I was just wondering because I haven't seen much on the site about the Bonide. I guess I'm going with Milorganite seems there are a high percentage of people on here who swear by it. Thanks for everything. It's also great that it's organic.

You are right. You definitely don't here a lot about Bonide on this site. I googled it and there are people on other sites who swear by it. They say it almost literally greens your lawn instantly. It definitely has me very curious. The only things I read that I didn't like were the possibilities of burning the grass if applied when it's too hot or the fact it could stain sidewalks.

People who use a foliar iron often apply a generic iron sulphate. You should be able to find some information by searching for that rather than Bonide. Bonide does contain a number of micro-nutrients like zinc and boron which can be an advantage if your soil test shows a shortage.

Great info. Thanks Yardtractor and Sherm.

So this whole Bonide/iron supplement conversation is making me wonder if there is something out there better to use for iron than milorganite. I am ruling out any liquid spray. If I have to use my 2 gallon tank sprayer and mist my grass every 2 to 3 weeks.........yeah, that ain't happening. Plus anything where I have to worry about staining my fence or pavement is not worth the risk.

I have heard people mention Dr. Iron which is made by Monterey or something like that. They make a pellet supplement that is something crazy like 22% iron and it supposedly lasts 20+ weeks. Does anyone have experience or feedback with this product especially with how it compares to milorganite?

Sherm,

If you crunch the numbers, I think you will find that you get about the same amount of iron per dollar with Milorganite as you do with Dr. Iron or Ironite, and Milorganite gives you nutrients and OM.
Andy10917 gave a great explanation on iron apps on a thread last night, but I can't find it now. Bottom line, due to type of soil (PH), granular (soil) iron applications don't get to the turf, so a foliar (spray) app is the only option.

Yardtractor, I saw Andy's post from last night. I agree it was very informative. The one thing he broke down was chelated vs. unchelated iron. He mentioned that milorganite is a chelated iron fertilizer so it lasts longer. He then went on to talk about the foliar application from a liquid iron supplement. What I gathered from it was liquid is the best and most sure fire way to get a dark green lawn but because milorganite is chelated, it also will work.

I was thinking and you're right that milorganite may provide more iron per dollar than Dr. Iron. Dr. Iron started to interest me because of how long it supposedly lasts. If it is truly 20 something weeks, that is pretty much an annual application for Bermuda vs. monthly or bi-monthly applications of milorganite. Maybe I need to listen to my wife and stop always trying to find something different or better. The regimen I have used this year has worked and I'm only about 3 weeks removed from an alfalfa application. I haven't even seen the benefits from that yet.