Should I add another round of alfalfa, Miloroganite or a shot of starter fertilizer again or nothing and wait for fall? Ive backed off the water to every other day for 20 min. The in ground irrigation oscillators are very efficient. Any advice would be much appreciated!!

Unless your sod supplier did a soil test, you should have waited for a real soil test to add lime.

What do the spots look like?

As you back off on the water, are you increasing the time?

Where do you live?

Since you have KBG in the mix, you should not have to overseed. KBG will spread to fill. Also in the heat you can skip a week of mowing and see how it looks. If it is still really dry at the end of the second week, skip again. Taller grass does a lot better in the heat and drought than short grass. Tall grass also grows deeper roots which capture more moisture at the deeper soil levels. Once the grass is more mature, say end of Sept, you can really start to back off on the watering frequency and up the duration of each application.

Your brown grass could be dormant KBG from backing off on the watering too early. If dormant it will come back.

How amazing a lawn do you want? It is not that hard, especially when you have the NJ head start.

You will need to know how much square footage area there is to be treated, and then purchase enough product for two applications at the curative rate, 14 days apart.

The potential risk for not treating with Immunox now would be waking up in the morning, sipping on your coffee, and looking out from your kitchen window at lots of large brown, dead areas in your turf.

If you do treat now with Immunox, you'll be waking up in the morning, sipping on your coffee, and looking out from your kitchen window at a view that looks similar to the first photo you posted in this thread.

So, which view would you prefer to enjoy on Labor Day weekend?

Read the label carefully for information about the temperature at application.

This is for dchall - how long ago were you here in Toms River? It has changed a whole lot in the last 15-20 years unfortuanately. Used to be a quiet, quaint and picturesque town with a strong colonial history. Now it is overpopulated to the max with folks that have moved down from the cities of Northern NJ and NY. Ugh! Anyways we are known for the filming area of the original Amityville Horror which was filmed right on the Toms River, Little League world series champs in 1998 who's star player is now a starter on the Cincinnati Reds in Todd Frazier, the book Blind Faith about a true story in which the affluent, country club produced a murderer who offed his wife for a big payday. It became a miniseries in the early 90's on one of the big networks. My wife actually grew up down the street from the guy. Well and yes we have plenty of beautiful, green lawns especially all of the ones who use a certain lawn service. I havent given in to that yet - I enjoy gardening even if I dont always get it just right. My grandfather was a farmer so I guess its in the blood! Nice communicating with you!

Personally I think this is a bad idea. Pick a height, and stick to it. The calender shouldn't be used to determine when you mow, the grass' height should.

Spreading disease via the mower does not bother me as long as you are treating the entire yard (you should be).

I only visited Tom's River for a few days back in 85. Mostly used it as a base to visit Seaside Park, Barnegat, Edison (friends), Princeton, NYC, and a cool little village on the PA border with lots of shops (never remember the name of that place).

From Dchall: " In no case, though, should you be mowing fescue or KBG at 2 inches or lower in the heat of summer."

Regarding tall fescue mowing height in summer, here is a good article that goes against the advice above: http://buckeyeturf.osu.edu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&i d=1191&catid=1:latest-news&Itemid=170

For the record I cut my TTTF at 2.5 most of the year, going down to 2 inches if periods of rain are in the forecast that last several consecutive days.

Read that article carefully. It lists all the reasons to not mow low as well as some special cases for mowing low. If you are going to mow low, you have to be right on top of your watering. The article says,

* Shorter mown turf dries out much quicker than high cut turf. If leaf tissue is wet for prolonged periods of time it is more susceptible to a range of summer diseases, like brown patch.

The dryness is exactly the reason you want to let the grass grow tall in the summer. You'll need to irrigate less often and that will usually take care of disease issues. Perhaps, as tiemco suggests, there is a cause for concern with tall grass in the summer if you have Mother Nature helping you out with the watering.

"Shorter mown turf dries out much quicker than high cut turf. If leaf tissue is wet for prolonged periods of time it is more susceptible to a range of summer diseases, like brown patch."

is one of the BENEFITS of lower mowing. The grass blades dry out quicker, not the soil. Prolonged leaf wetness is what you want to avoid. A high turf traps moisture among the leaf blades, increasing risk of disease. Evapotranspiration rates between low and high turf are essentially the same, and it is usually lower in shorter turf due to the decreased leaf area.