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| I'm new to the forum and am looking for a game plan for my bermuda. As seen in the pictures, I can't mow lower than level 4 on my rotary mower without scalping continually. A great majority of the lawn was sodded with 419 (I believe), which we took directly from a golf course during course renovation. It was fairway cut and still greens up tremendously well...just uneven and consequently prone to scalping. At this point I don't know whether I have time in the season to level with sand per forum directions, or wait until next year. Any suggestions? Thanks. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Level 4 on my craftsman LT100 seems to produce the sane results. Read the Bermuda bible by texasweed. |
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Wed, Jul 25, 12 at 23:05
| Well if you are scalping indicates you might not be mowing frequently enough. But to answer your question you have enough time left this season to apply at least one app of sand to start leveling. |
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- Posted by Luckywith2 none (My Page) on Thu, Jul 26, 12 at 9:39
| Thanks for the input. I cut it a fair bit lower last night and laid an inch of water. There is still green showing and I will continue at the lower height tomorrow to begin the more frequent mowing habit. I actually mow every three days or so, just have been afraid to really drop the height. Went ahead and did it, and It's shocking how many dips and bumps are there at level 2. Also, with small sections of the lawn being weeds or fescue, will I need to do something else before leveling, or will the encouragement of the low bermuda growth simply overtake the weed areas with proper fertilization,watering and mowing? Here's another view showing the non-bermuda areas. |
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Thu, Jul 26, 12 at 19:51
| Just executing proper Bermuda maintenance will knock out most of the weeds and Fescue. If it is hot where you are at a shot of fertilizer and frequent mowing will knock the Fescue down. I suggest you search the Internet using Google for the term "Bermuda Bible, Bestlawn" and down load the document. |
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- Posted by Luckywith2 none (My Page) on Thu, Jul 26, 12 at 21:15
| Thanks TW, I already downloaded the document. It's in the mid 90's...and I suppose you're talking about the slow release nitrogen? I'll do it. Also, now that I've cut the grass lower, I just need to continue it? According to all the forum talk, that will "train" it to grow out and thick and will green up with appropriate water and fertilizer. I plan on leveling very soon. I will get some pictures and hopefully feedback. Thanks again. |
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Thu, Jul 26, 12 at 22:34
| Thanks TW, I already downloaded the document. It's in the mid 90's...and I suppose you're talking about the slow release nitrogen? Yes look for something with 50 to 75% slow release. Also, now that I've cut the grass lower, I just need to continue it? Yes if that is the height you are commuted maintain. My advice is sense you intend to level and smoothing things out is not get real hung up on appearance this season. Get it leveled out for the remainder of the growing season. When summer weather breaks in late August or early spring get some per-emergence down, repeat in late December, and again next spring. In the meantime apply some regular fertilizer applications for the rest of this year, keep it watered, and level things out. When the grass goes dormant get a soil sample, and come next spring you can have that Better Homes & Gardens looking lawn. Besides I think you will be surprised how good it looks comes fall with some TLC.
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- Posted by Luckywith2 none (My Page) on Fri, Jul 27, 12 at 21:30
| Thanks again TW...Dropping some sand tomorrow. Whatever area I can physically handle! |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Sat, Jul 28, 12 at 1:57
| Oh man! You can't just drop sand willy nilly. Have you read any of the leveling topics in this forum? If you want it done right you have a whole process to go through. Click here for a video showing how the pros level a lawn. Note that they scalp it twice, clean it all up, core aerate, fertilize, apply sand, and drag the sand. You should do all those steps except core aerate. There is no reason for that and it adds about a full day to the job for a homeowner. Tips: |
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- Posted by Luckywith2 none (My Page) on Sat, Jul 28, 12 at 21:00
| Thanks dchall, I've read everything I could find on here about leveling. Didn't get to do anything on it today as other things came up. Maybe I shouldn't have used the term "drop sand" as it probably implies the willy nilly method. I'm keeping it cut as low as possible now, and planned on cutting and cleaning it all up before the leveling process as described in the forum. I've got the drag and appropriate tools. If my plan works now, I can do it early in the week...we should be getting rain shortly after that. Working on the watering and fertilizing in the mean time. I couldn't find the 39-0-0 Lesco, but did find 28-0-3. Didn't get any, wasn't sure about it as it's not in the rules. Organic alternative? |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Sat, Jul 28, 12 at 22:27
| Thanks. I feel better. The only organic sub for 28-0-3 is about 50 pounds per 1,000 square feet of corn gluten meal. About 3 days later it would be pretty stinky. You could apply 15 pounds every week and get the effect. The price of corn is way down from last year. |
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- Posted by Luckywith2 none (My Page) on Sat, Jul 28, 12 at 23:48
| Would the 28-0-3 be ok at this point though? I'll look at the corn gluten meal too. |
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