Return to the Lawn Care Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
What do the bare spots indicate?

Posted by easychair z7 NJ (My Page) on
Wed, Jul 6, 11 at 13:11

I have a lush new lawn/weed farm. That which is growing, whether weed or fescue, is growing green and tall. However, there are spots that remain bare. What is this telling me about the soil in those areas? The spots are interspersed in swales, on slopes and in flat areas. Could it be that they just didn't get hit with grass seed or weed seed? I assume it's more about the soil. I tilled, limed, and added about 1/4" of topsoil before seeding. I also used Nitron liquid aerator about a week after seeding. I find it interesting that soil in my area is high in marl clay yet I feel sandiness on the surface in many areas when the soil is dry.

I had a soil test done before all of this which showed low ph(5.32), low phosporous(35), high magnesium(557), high calcium(2179). Not knowing any better, I may not have used the calcitic lime that the report suggested for amendment. I used a Scott's drop spreader (which I'm finding awkward and finicky) for seeding, fertilizing, liming.

Thanks for any help!
Jeff


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: What do the bare spots indicate?

With high calcium, tell me why you added lime? Are you saying the soil test recommended adding it?

Soil can vary across a small area based on whatever was done over the years. Someone might have had a flower garden in the middle of a yard, or a tree, and that could change the soil forever. In my case back in 1997 I built a fort using treated lumber. The spot where I set up the saw is still visible as a bare spot. Treated lumber is not a good soil additive ;-) It is hard to guess why different spots might not grow seed.

You might do a structural test on your soil. Get a straight sided glass or plastic jar, fill it half way with soil, then fill it all the way with water and one drop of dish soap. Shake the jar and take a picture of it with a ruler next to it. Take the picture after 2 minutes, 2 hours, and 2 days. Sand and rubble will fall immediately to the bottom of the jar (2 minutes). Silt will fall after a couple hours. Clay will remain suspended and cloud the water for days. With the test and a ruler you can estimate the amount of sand, silt, and clay you have in your soil. Organic matter will float in an unmeasurable amount on the surface.

Next time you seed for a lawn, don't till and don't add any topsoil unless you need to change the flow of water drainage. Tilling ultimately causes the surface to become bumpy. The settling process takes as much as 3 years before you finally become disgusted with it. Adding small amounts of topsoil over the years can lead to something like this...

The house across the street has the same situation. Apparently adding 1/4 inch of topsoil annually was a common practice in this neighborhood. There are a few homes which were spared and have a flat hell strip.


 o
RE: What do the bare spots indicate?

Thanks. Yes, I added the lime because of the soil test recommendation, but they did recommend calcitic lime, and none of the ones at Home Depot said calcitic, so I just assumed they were all calcitic. I still don't know if they are or not, but I went to Agway recently and saw virtually no magnesium in their lime, and the cashier told me it was calcitic lime. I bought a bag, which I haven't yet used. I figure I'll wait until the next soil test.

I'll do the structural test you mention. I'll gather it from different areas and test each.

I do already notice some bumpiness in the new lawn area, so that's not a comforting thing after what you've told me can happen over years. It seems very sensitive to the lawnmower. At nearly every mower turn, I feel I disturb at least some of the grading that I did before seeding. It was dead flat then. I also pulled a lot of weeds, which made it even more bumpy.

I'm a bit concerned now about potential amendments. Am I understanding you correctly that you don't believe it's possible to repair the areas of your lawn and your neighbors because of the addition of topsoil over the years?
I want to believe there's a solution for everything. Core or liquid aeration maybe? Different seed variety? Digging up the soil and adding a deep layer of good soil? There has to be something, right?

BTW, a sprinkler system was just installed here and talk about bumpy! The sprinkler guy recommended getting soil and feathering it out around the bumps. But yes, this lawn is going to need some real work to get it flat again. Now you're making me wonder about topdressing, which I was planning on doing later on this year.

This is becoming quite a project. I really should have sodded, and I'm thinking that careful cutting down of the high spots might be better in many areas than feathering with more soil.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Lawn Care Forum

Instructions

  • You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
  • HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
  • No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.



 
Click here to learn more about in-text links on this page.