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how to get a thicker and greener lawn

Posted by johnaw z5 OHIO (My Page) on
Sat, Jul 5, 08 at 13:44

I am going to sow my lawn and would like to know what would be the best grass seed to use?

It is in full sun and clay soil.

What type of seed should I use?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: how to get a thicker and greener lawn

I forgot what would be the best time to do this? Sow Grass Seed.


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RE: how to get a thicker and greener lawn

Best time to do this is probably mid to late august. That will give your grass start to come in before the frost.

Until then, do a soil test to see if you need to amend your soil. Check for compaction and aerate just be fore you overseed if necessary.

As for which seed, that's going to depend on the grass you currently have for the most part if you're overseeding. If you're starting from scratch it's different.

Some good places to buy and get information on different types of grass are Rose Agriseed and Pawnee Butte Seed

A good watering schedule (deep and infrequent), along with proper feeding and good mowing practices (mulch mow, keep grass long, never mow more than 1/3 the length) will help you get a thick green lawn.


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RE: how to get a thicker and greener lawn

I screwed up the html. Seedland.com is another place to look for seeds.


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RE: how to get a thicker and greener lawn

Seed in the fall.

In the mean time, use the search function here to learn the many tricks of the trade contained in this forum's Frequently asked questions and archives.

There is so much that will make your new project easier and more successful you can't even believe it. But, you have to do a crash course on lawn growing 101 if you want to have that greener thicker lawn you say you want.

The good news its mostly knowing and following some simple basics CONSISTENTLY.

Good luck.


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RE: how to get a thicker and greener lawn

I agree with the two previous entries.

But also...I suggest using the aerator as a 'tool' merely to 'lift' soil up to the surface, maybe as many as two passes over a moist lawn, after it's been mowed short (to reduce interference w/ equipment & increase user visability).

And then....once all of the soil cores all over the lawn have dried to a large extent, use a genuine SLICE SEEDER to cut vertically into the soil, and drop the grass seed into those cuts, while at the same time pulverizing all of those aforementioned soil cores.
I myself like to implement the use of endomycorrhyzae spores when I 'dissect' lawns like this...but doing so pretty much neccessitates the lawn-owner to a PERMANENT shift toward ALL ORGANICS in terms of turf food & weed control, or else the beneficial spores will likely die for the lack of protein that needs to be spoonfed to them, in the manner that corn meal (etc) does.

A good, successful seed job is all about SEED TO SOIL CONTACT, first and foremost !

Generally, other considerations to think about, are erosion potential (both wind and water), weed invasiveness potential, moisture loss potential, and the length of time to mature before freeze / frost cycles begin.


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