Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
railunder

Nut Sedge in lawn

Railunder
9 years ago

I recently used a product called SedgeHammer with excellent results. The sedge stopped growing and turned yellow. I guess it is dead or dying. The results were evident in a week. My question is now I have these patches of yellow sedge. See picture. Is it safe to pull them up and re-seed the patches or is the sedge just playing with me and the roots are still viable?

Comments (17)

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago

    It's possible it's still playing games with you. While unattractive, I'd leave it a bit longer to make sure it's really dead and not just playing possum...

    Nutsedge also has nutlets on the roots, which can be dormant at the time of spraying. Keep a close eye out for a reappearance in those same areas and treat it immediately.

    I use Tenacity rather than Sedgehammer (same idea, though), and sometimes have to re-treat sections I treated if it comes back. It's never as bad the second time.

  • danielj_2009
    9 years ago

    morph - not to steal the thread (hopefully to add to it): I believe I have nutsedge here and there as well. What are your experiences with Tenacity? Just use it as the label recommends? Fall or spring or both, etc.?? How long do you have to wait before seeding bare spots left behind?

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago

    It's a nutsedge thread as far as I'm concerned, so this is not a steal. :-)

    Tenacity is the only thing that gave me control over nutsedge n my gardens (Sedgehammer probably would have worked, but I found Tenacity first). It takes time, about a week, for the sedge to collapse and die, and sometimes two sprays are necessary, a week apart.

    More frequently, new nutsedge has simply sprouted the next week in different areas and needs to die.

    In lawns, you can seed at the same time you apply Tenacity. it functions as a weak pre-emergent on some weeds (including nutsedge) for about a month, but has no effect on grass seed.

    One effective method of sedge control is to apply Tenacity at seeding time across the entire area. Sedges simply won't survive, and it gives the grass a solid month to grow before having to deal with sedges, thistle, P. annua, and P. trivialis.

  • Railunder
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for all of the feedback. I assumed that it will take 2 to 3 growing seasons until I can proclaim victory. I spent years pulling it out only to learn I was probably spreading it. Thanks again!

  • dchall_san_antonio
    9 years ago

    Nutsedge loves wet soil, so if you're watering frequently, you will see a lot more of it than if you are watering infrequently.

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago

    >>Nutsedge loves wet soil, so if you're watering frequently

    Pennsylvania for both myself and the OP (if the entry on the first message was correct as it changed, durn it). Damp soil is a way of life this year. :-) Our forecast today was for a ten percent chance of a very light shower. It just poured for two hours.

    Unfortunately, the occasional sedge outbreak is unavoidable as the weather in May, June, and September is almost always conducive to it.

  • dchall_san_antonio
    9 years ago

    I'm just saying not to add more water if you can help it. Mother Nature will help you or hurt you. We're seeing a huge benefit with this being an El Nino year down here. Although I have started seeing fungal disease in zoysia in San Antonio. That's a sign of too much water. I have a touch of it in my St Aug in SA, also. Brought home some corn meal for that.

  • danielj_2009
    9 years ago

    I was plucking what I think is nutsedge out of the edges of my lawn when I noticed that the weed was growing ON TOP of the soil, suspended by the sod! Each weed would have about an inch of pure white roots, followed by another 1/2 inch or so of dirty roots. I was reading that nutsedge primarily propagates through tubers, so maybe what i have isn't nutsedge at all?? Here's a typical one (that was growing out of the soil):

    {{gwi:106705}}

  • polyguy78
    9 years ago

    Definitely not nutsedge. Looks very much like annual ryegrass. Recently apply seed to the lawn?

  • danielj_2009
    9 years ago

    No, not since the lawn was put in last October. The back yard was seeded with a mix. The front sodded area has these same weeds floating in among the KBG blades, and rooting down to the ground! But with the sod these weeds are mostly at the edges near pavement.

  • danielj_2009
    9 years ago

    OK, I realize this may even be a different weed from my first one, but here is a photo of what I was thinking was nutsedge. I originally thought it was crab grass. Any idea (sorry to OP).

    {{gwi:106706}}

    {{gwi:106707}}

  • joneboy
    9 years ago

    I believe the second is orchardgrass, just pull it or it should eventually mow out.

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago

    I'm dreadful at weed ID, but that's not a sedge. Sedges have triangular stems (you can feel it if you roll it between your fingers) and three leaves from the base.

  • dchall_san_antonio
    9 years ago

    Awww, jeeze. 15 yard penalty for withholding evidence.

    This is nutsedge.

  • danielj_2009
    9 years ago

    Well if it makes you feel any better dchall, I probably have some of that, too.

    joneboy, thanks for the ID!

  • polyguy78
    9 years ago

    Barnyardgrass. A summer annual that can be controlled next year with many pre-emergent. If you've just random plants, cut them off just below the surface and that should be that. To confirm let one of the plants off to the side mature and let it produce a seed head. Seed heads are often the best and easiest way to ID grasses. The Penn State links a good one: http://extension.psu.edu/pests/weeds/weed-id/barnyardgrass

  • danielj_2009
    9 years ago

    thanks polyguy