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| The more I read, the more I'm confused. We want to plant a new 350 SF lawn in the San Francisco Bay Area. Full sun. Clay soil, pH = 7.0, nitrogen poor, medium to high phosphorous and potassium. The microbes and worms have long since "left the building". I've read contradictory advice on every aspect of putting in a new lawn. Can you correct my plan?
1. Rototill soil, remove large stones. 2. Add (2 or 3 inches) of (compost or nursery mix) and mix with 6" of soil. 3. Level and grade. 4. Dig trenches for irrigation and low voltage lighting. Cover trenches. 5. Spread 1/2" organic fertilizer. 6. Lay sod in staggered pattern. Roll lawn. Thank you! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by bassplayer7 6 (My Page) on Fri, Jul 8, 11 at 19:47
| Don't till too deep. Also, I would move the "level and grade" step to #1 and bump everything else down. I'm sure you've thought of this already but be careful filling the larger irrigation trenches or you will have dips there. Be aware when you are adding soil around the driveway and patio(s) or the like. You want your dirt roughly 1/2" or so below the driveway. That way when you lay the sod, it should be level. |
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- Posted by francesca_sf (My Page) on Fri, Jul 8, 11 at 22:09
| Thank you Mr. BassPlayer7! All excellent pieces of advice I would not have known otherwise. |
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Fri, Jul 8, 11 at 22:39
| I would move the "level and grade" step to #1 and bump everything else down How can you possible level and grade before tilling? The whole point is to level and grade after tilling to have a smooth flat planting bed. Well there is a way by using a tractor and box blade, but if you did that there is no reason to till. To take it one step further there is no good reason to till unless you have a tractor with a tiller. |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Fri, Jul 8, 11 at 23:07
| Hi Francesca. I always have to wonder what people are reading when they post something like this. Had you been reading here your plan would have been completely different. 1. Rototill soil, remove large stones. 2. Add (2 or 3 inches) of (compost or nursery mix) and mix with 6" of soil. 3. Level and grade. 4. Dig trenches for irrigation and low voltage lighting. Cover trenches. 5. Spread 1/2" organic fertilizer. 6. Lay sod in staggered pattern. Roll lawn. Also I'm going to suggest that you might not have clay soil. Try this test. Fill a straight sided glass jar with soil. Measure it with a ruler. Then fill the jar all the way with water and a drop of dish soap. Shake the jar and set it down. Take pictures with the ruler at 2 minutes, 2 hours, and 2 days. After 2 minute all the sand and rubble will have settled to the bottom. Measure that height. After 2 hours all the silt will have settled on top of the sand and rubble. Photograph and measure that. After 2 days everything but the clay will have settled out. If your water is murky like chocolate milk, then you have a lot of clay. If your water is clear enough to see through the jar, then you have about zero clay. Clay will remain suspended in water for days and usually only settles when the water evaporates. |
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- Posted by francesca_sf (My Page) on Fri, Jul 8, 11 at 23:59
| dchall, Thank you! What you say about the compost makes sense. This is exactly what I mean about the confusion - 3 different garden supply places recommended compost under the lawn! As to the leveling, grading and rototilling, you may be imagining a better starting point than we have. (ha, ha) The soil is hardtack (water rolls right off rather than being absorbed in). It is uneven and there are BIG stones still in the ground as well as various garbage from the original construction site - and that was 40 years ago! Seriously - it's a big mess and we're looking forward to doing the best preparation we can to finally make it a paradise and to give the lawn the best chance of survival. I will try the clay test. |
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- Posted by bassplayer7 6 (My Page) on Sat, Jul 9, 11 at 9:07
| texas-weed, I think we are picturing two different types of "leveling and grading". |
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- Posted by texas-weed 7A (My Page) on Sat, Jul 9, 11 at 16:14
| The soil is hardtack (water rolls right off rather than being absorbed in). OK try this test when the soil is dry. Place a few drops of water on the soil. If it is repelled or stands there, tilling is not going to fix that problem. |
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