Fertilizing
Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it. If you are using chemical fertilizers, too little is better than too much. If you are using organic fertilizers, it is the other way around. At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

If that is typical shade, then you have two choices of turf grass in that area. And really you only have once choice depending on where you live. If you live in a warm area (Sacramento and inland to the south) then you will have good luck with St Augustine. If you live within a mile of the beach or north of Sac'to, then you will have better luck with fescue in the shade.

St Augustine is your target grass in Upland. If you can get a close up picture in the shade and without Vaseline on the lens, we could probably identify it for you.

Also, if I'm reading the earlier post correctly. I'm supposed to water 1 hour per day, or is it per week.

�Soil Type �Bare soil infiltration rate �Grass-covered infiltration rate
�Clay
�0.1" to 0.5" per hour �0.05" to 0.25" per hour
�Loam
�0.4" to 0.8" per hour
�0.25" to 0.5" per hour
�Sand
�0.7" to 1.0" per hour �0.4" to 0.7" per hour

It is very likely to be Marathon fescue. In Upland it might even be relatively easy to grow. You're not as hot as Hemet or Temecula and they grow it all the time out there.

Is water infiltration an issue? I couldn't really read that last message. There's something about the symbols used in the original that did not come through in the HTML.

Water one inch per week in the summer heat and one inch per month in the cool months.

As far as infiltration goes, I read on a website that you need to know what type of soil I have and what the infiltration is in order to know if 1 inch is too little or too much.

It's been very hot lately, so for now I have the sprinklers set for Monday and Friday 1hour each time to get 2 inches per week. I haven't got the tuna cans yet, so I may have to adjust that.

I used the tuna cans to figure out how long it will take for 1 inch of water, and doubled that up because I feel the lawn needs a good 2 inches per week. Here are the results.

In my opinion, having done overseeding and renovations, with a lawn your size and condition I think it is worth the little bit of extra effort and just do a full renovation.

It is recommended to do a soil test either way to see what you are dealing with as far as growing conditions of your soil.

What are you looking for in a lawn? If you get rid of all the broadleaf weeds, are you going to complain about the grassy weeds? Those are the often pasture grasses/weeds which grow faster than some of the more sedate, turf grasses. You could spot spray with something like Weed-B-Gone and make a big dent in the lawn weeds. You could rake out all the gray areas where the grass is dead and overseed in there. When you over seed you have to change your watering to much more frequent to get the seed to sprout. You need to go to 3x per day for a very short time - usually 10 minutes. Do that until the grass sprouts. If you use Kentucky bluegrass, that takes 3 weeks to germinate. Fescue takes 2 weeks. In Upland you definitely have some summer heat to deal with. I would lean toward St Augustine sod or one of the Marathon fescues. KBG won't take your heat. If you were on the other side of the hill in West Covina then you might get away with KBG. That whole stretch from Santa Monica inland through El Monte, Covina, over the hill to Pomona and on to Fontana/Upland/Chino is a mix of environmental eccentricities that make your area hotter and drier than even Covina just a few miles away. Most cool season grasses will struggle, but Marathon seems to survive with more water. St Aug would be preferred because it likes shade and heat. It is also very tolerant of varying soil conditions. It would not need as much water as Marathon because it is better adapted to the hot conditions.

If you just want something green, then spray with WBG. If the first WBG you try leaves some species of broadleaf weeds, try a stronger one. Remember with WBG you only need to moisten the leaves - it is not a soil drench. But if you want something that looks more like a lawn at all times, then consider more of a renovation approach. We can help you figure that out, too.