Ortho Weed B Gone for Southern Lawns will kill the broadleaf weeds. The concentrate version you mix in a tank sprayer works well. I can't speak for the pre-mixed varieties they sell.

As far as the other weeds, I am not sure. The other piece of advice I can give you is to use a good pre-emergent in the fall and in the spring. That will help your lawn a lot next year.

I am sharing your pain. I had my front lawn sodded with Tifway419 in May and it seems like the crabgrass is overtaking the sod! I have been using Weedout with Q by Fertilome with some success but it says not to use when above 85. It also yellows the grass around the sprayed area. I have read about a product called Celsius from Bayer that gets great reviews, but if can't find it locally. It claims not to yellow and can be used at temps above 85.

This post was edited by bvaughn4 on Sat, Jul 12, 14 at 21:58

Celcius (google Celcius herbicide to buy online) is the BEST for bermuda, wont kill it, and can be safely applied in high temps. There may be some sticker price shock ($90-100 dollars retail, $75-80 on ebay) for 10 oz. (smallest size it comes in), but you use so little of it per gallon application (.05 to .11 of an oz. depending upon the weed) that you probably wont be able to use it all in 5 years...so its actually cheaper than weed b gone or other big box store products.

I cant over state how great this stuff is...it kills "all" weeds in bermuda with the exception of nutsedge, for this you need "sedgehammer". You will never need anything else for post-emergent weeds in bermuda lawns if you have these 2 products.

This post was edited by alicetooljam on Sun, Jul 13, 14 at 4:07

Wow that is expensive! And is it a spray everywhere type product or spot application?

Yes I do plan on using pre emergents fall and spring as per everyone's recommendations and the bermuda bible I just didn't have that option due to seeding in June

Yes, you can broadcast or spot spray with it. Its expensive if you focus on the initial cost, but if you look at the amounts used I posted above, you can prepare & use UP TO 10 gallons of it and will only have used 1/10th of the bottle. Its well worth it in the long run.

That makes sense, thanks for the help

I've done some looking into celcius and a lot if folks say it's a waste in crabgrass?! They say it's a great product but you need something targeted for crabgrass, most of these post are 2+ years old. Is this still the case? I don't want to spend 90 bucks and not Kill one of my primary weeds...

The big two in my yard are Dallisgrass and crabgrass, followed closely by goose grass

It may take more than one application (as do most crab grass killers) a couple of weeks apart for crabgrass, but Ive never had a problem getting rid of it with celcius. I could link you to another forum and threads where multiple people sing its praises on crab, dallis, and bahai grass so you could see others, but also dont want to break any rules here...(private message or email maybe?) google "around the yard".....Bayer Advanced lawn weed & crabgrass killer I hear works well on crabgrass, but Im not sure if I would trust it to not damage your good grass in high temps....good luck!

Careful alicetooljam. That did break a rule. I'm not the forum police, but I can warn you of previous members' experiences that got them banned. You can't suggest someone leave this forum (and their advertisers) to find help on another lawn forum. That's kind of a standard rule on all forums where there is advertising. Before this forum went commercial, anything went, but not anymore.

I also have a new bermuda p77 lawn that was planted in May. I'm dealing with a ton of weeds and fully expect that I won't be able to get rid of them until next year by putting a postmergent this fall and premergent next spring. I have spurge, nutsedge and crabgrass.

Question is regarding a product called Manor. Will it work against these weeds? Nutsedge sucks!

Quick Edit: I just looked up Manor and it doesn't even do nutsedge.

This post was edited by HomieTheClown on Tue, Jul 15, 14 at 23:15

homie, normally I would suggest posting your own topic, but yours happens to be very similar. The solution might not be, though.

So far nobody has mentioned the idea that improper watering might be an issue. Once the bermuda seed is established and up high enough to mow, the watering should be changed. You need to determine how long it takes your sprinklers to apply one inch of water. Put some cat food or tuna cans in the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Time how long it takes to fill them. It might be many hours, so don't just stand there. Check every 15 minutes for the first hour and every half hour after that. When all the cans are full, stop your timer. That is how long you should be watering. Then, and this is the magic of proper watering, don't water again until the grass looks wilted. Never mind that the soil is dried up and cracking, watch the grass. As soon as any part of the grass looks wilted, water immediately for the time it took to fill the cans. Then watch it again until it wilts. It should go longer and longer every time you do this. The grass roots will grow deeper and will be able to pull moisture from deeper in the soil. You should be easily able to go a week or two between watering. When you have reached that point with the grass, weeds tend to dry up and blow away. New weeds can't happen because the seeds cannot germinate on the dry soil. THIS WORKS AGAINST NUTSEDGE, too. You might still have the nuts underground, but they will be dormant until the ground gets soggy for several days in a row (nutsedge is a swamp plant).

There are some weeds which can survive this watering regimen. For those I would simply spot spray with RoundUp as a tough love approach. It will kill the surrounding bermuda, but the live bermuda surrounding that will quickly refill the dead spots.