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| I have read something about topsoil applied over lawn sometimes as thin layer and watered over, is it usual. Or it is something what specifically done in certain cases. Sound like a good idea to me adding organic fresh layer and digesting thatch? How I do that? Use fertilizer spreader? |
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| You would be better served applying compost to your yard, not topsoil. Topsoil is well, soil, so unless you need to even out low spots, topsoil won't really provide much in the way of organic matter or nutrients. Applying compost is usually done by hand, either by applying piles of it and spreading it with a large pushbroom, or manually dropping it with large scoop type tools (I make my own by cutting the bottoms off gallon OJ containers). If the compost is very dry, then you could probably use a spreader, but if it's too moist it will probably clog up the opening. |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Sat, Jul 28, 12 at 1:35
| You probably heard that from someone who is in the business of taking $5 worth of dirt and charging hundreds to spread it out. In my opinion there is absolutely no value in that. There are hazards to the existing lawn, though. These can be time consuming and very expensive to fix. What is the problem you want to solve with the topsoil? In addition to compost, which I will never use again, you can start applying organic fertilizer now. I believe that is the best, most cost effective thing you can do for your soil. There is a house around the corner from me where they apply compost every other year. Every other year they smother the St Augustine and it takes until the following season to fully recover. I should take a picture but I'm waiting for the clouds to come to show it off just right. It has been since March when the compost was applied and the grass has not filled in yet. For St Augustine I believe compost is highly overrated. |
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| My idea to use layer of topsoil is to add organic matter to my "sandy nothing" under lawn, previous owner have not mulched or fertilized for at least las 3-4 years, I can tell, lawn looks bad and soil is very high in pH and carbonates, I need to start somewhere to fix that. |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Mon, Jul 30, 12 at 23:18
| Okay so the lawn looks bad. Before going any further, I would need to know where you live. Topsoil almost never contains any organic matter. The compost mentioned by tiemco is 100% organic matter. However, if you have sand soil, don't get your hope up too high for compost solving all your problems. Really need to know where you are. How do you know the soil has a high pH? Again, depending on where you are, you can address that or forget about it. St Augustine grows extremely well at a pH of 8.5. Assuming you are there or below, then you might not need to do anything. I live on a limestone formation that extends 50 miles in all directions and is 700 feet deep. I'm never going to dissolve all the lime to get down to a pH below 8. If you would like to have your soil/sand tested for chemistry, the best lab is Logan Labs in Ohio. Whatever your local county extension service is offering for $20 or less cannot match the depth and breadth of the $20 test you get from Logan Labs. While you are waiting for results, you can get started with organic fertilizer to improve your soil. My favorite is alfalfa pellets for the amount of protein you get for the price. You can usually find it at any feed store. It goes by that name or rabbit/chinchilla chow. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. The more often you apply the faster your soil will improve. Monthly apps are fine. It will take a full 3 weeks before you notice the improvement, but it will really make a big difference in color, density, and growth. A 50-pound bag of alfalfa should cost around $12. After you apply moisten the pellets. They will soak up the water and burst which prevents other critters (mainly birds) from flying off with them. Feeding alfalfa to the soil is the fastest way to improve your sand/soil. If you absolutely cannot find alfalfa, try Milorganite, soy bean meal, cottonseed meal, or corn gluten meal. The last resort would be ordinary corn meal and used coffee grounds (free from Starbucks). Obviously alfalfa is organic and will help develop the soil so that it destroys any thatch you might have. You should be watering once a week for an hour at a time. And you should be mulch mowing at the mower's highest setting once a week. If you are not doing either of those, correcting that is going to help, too. |
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| I am in ft lauderdale area, 10 a/b zone, nothing will survive in 8.5 ph conditions, palms, hedges they all around in south florida gardens and lawns, what are you talking about? if you do care only about your st Augustine grass and nothing else around, take a break, there are more than that to be conserned about! |
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| Hey I payed 30 $ per alfalfa bag , I do not care about numbers I just wanted to have healthy organic backyard, did I got that? Not sure, have I spend extra money? Surely, for what? No one knows besides organic lawn care ideologists, it is what is sound stupid! |
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