Here's another picture.
Thank you

KBG is the most likely the go dormant and be able to come back. However, it also needs the most amount of water. SO, depending on how long it went dormant and without water could have killed it off leaving you with what you have now. If you decide to go TTTF it will require less water and stay green longer, but if you neglect it it will completely die.

Also, that second year for the KBG it was still young and not fully established, making it more susceptible to problems.

I don't understand seeding last fall and waiting 'till this spring for it to come in. If you planted in fall correctly, you should have had grass in fall. So, something went wrong on your part.

To answer one of your questions - NO lawn will be able to go a whole summer of hot temperatures and no rain/water and be OK.

I did not notice you mention any sort of fertilizer?

To help you out before others chime in, you need to explain your "level of care". How often and for how long did you water? What type and how much fertilizer? etc.

I also question your leaving out any information on whether you fertilize your lawn and with what.
You mention that you bought a MIX of Kentucky Bluegrass...and I suspect you were sold a bill of goods. Why buy on the internet for something you should see before you buy..price is suspect.
For Indiana a good northern type combination grass is
40 percent Kentucky Blue, 30% perennial ryegrass and 30% fescue. This makes for a tough, all season grass that stands up to most invasions.

I recommend you build organic matter into the turf by applying every spring, every fall, a layer of compost/topsoil to a depth of 1/2" - 1". Then overseeding the area with a quality grass seed of the type mentioned.
The mix might be less or more the amounts.

To find out how much soil you need to buy simply measure the area LENGTH X WIDTH ...IN FEET, multiply that times the depth of soil IN INCHES, TIMES 3, divide by 1000 resulting in the number of cubic yards of soil to use.

If you follow this regimen every spring, every fall, your lawn will quickly show results you are looking for.

Following a schedule of fertilizing from spring through fall is important to keep the lawn growing its best and ward off attacks by pests and disease.

Although I agree with introducing organic matter, I don't necessarily agree with your recommendations. For one, I'm sure he IS lacking in Organic matter, but a soil test should be done to see. Second, top coating with compost or top soil is labor intensive and expensive. Let alone doing it twice a year, which I don't think is really necessary. One app. should do it along with mulch mowing, mulching fall leaves in, an using an organic fertilizer such as alfalfa. :-) Not trying to argue, just don't agree with your recommendation

Last fall I think I reseeded too late after aerating. I remember is was the last week of October or first week of Nov. Was that too late? It was unseasonably warm at the time.
I did use fertilizer, the stuff from my local Menards. I didn't use the weed and feed, only the straight fertilizer. I used WBG to spot treat the weeds.

The sides of my house and back yard are fine with no watering from me this whole summer. Like I said, all my neighbors never water and there's always looks yellow/brown in the dead of summer and now has all greened up since we've had several rain days in the past couple of weeks.

If I start over, what do you guys suggest? Round Up the front? and reseed? Do I need a slit seeder?

Thanks for all the responses.

When I did water I followed the recommendations from some the posters on here. I used the tuna can, etc.

Can I buy the combo grass 40 percent Kentucky Blue, 30% perennial ryegrass and 30% fescue at a Menards or HD?

Thanks

I suspect your neighbors are watering when you're not watching. Could be middle of the night or during the day when you are out.

Rye is not a great seed in a mix. Why? Because it sprouts about 15 minutes after you put it down and you're strongly tempted to stop the frequent watering required for new seed. More seriously, rye sprouts in a week, fescue in 2 weeks, and KBG in 3 weeks. By the time the KBG is sprouting, you'll be wanting to mow the rye. It's just not good in a mix.

And never apply more than 1/4 inch of anything to your lawn unless you are trying to smother it or change the drainage.

Late October is too late. You should seed at the earliest opportunity when the summer heat breaks. For many north of you that might be in late August. Every place is different and it is different every year.

Okay, so based on the pictures, should I round up everything and lay down about a 1/4 of topsoil and then seed? Do I need to rent a slit seeder? When should I start, based on my zone? Still not sure where to buy the seed.
Thanks everyone.

Can anyone please answer whether I should round up the whole front lawn and then seed? Or just use WBG? Slit seeder for laying the seed?
Thank you very much.