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if not tilling, then what?

Posted by joeschmoe 6 (Ohio) (My Page) on
Tue, Aug 7, 12 at 16:06

I see all this hub-bub about "no-till" but, is there anything wrong with a ONE-TIME till to break up contractor-compacted soil?

If so, then HOW do you 'decompact' it?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: if not tilling, then what?

The best way to 'decompact' a soil without tilling is with the use of a small tractor and a box blade with scarring teeth.


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RE: if not tilling, then what?

Won't that just remove compaction an inch down, then immediately recompact it as the rear wheels run over it?


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RE: if not tilling, then what?

As you may know, I asked a similar question, and was told not to till. I'm thinking that the solution may be to put down 4-6 inches of topsoil.

As I can tell so far, the reason for not tilling is to prevent lumps and bumps later on. If there's anothe reason (in addition to weed seeds coming up too) I'd like to hear it.

Also, there must be an alternative to loosen soil ona small scale without a tractor. Maybe a verticutter is the answer...I don't know. Then again, maybe it's good to not have to till for toher reasons as well, because I know my allergies will be horrible if I do.


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RE: if not tilling, then what?

A couple of years ago, I seeded an area of my back yard. What I did was aerate the crap out of it, 2-3 passes. I then ran a power rake over it to break up the clumps. Manually raked it out and seeded. Looks great and is preety flat.


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RE: if not tilling, then what?

There are several reasons why not to till. The main one for lawns is that it fluffs up the soil at the surface and leaves an uneven sub surface. Because tillers are impossible to man handle, they buck and dig in depending on rocks, roots, and soft spots. It is impossible to control the level of the untilled surface below the fluffy surface. Then when you level the top surface, the fluffy soil will have different depths depending on the under surface. When it all settles, the final surface will take the profile of the underlying (untilled) surface left by the bucking and digging. The settling process takes years so it will get worse and worse as time goes on.

Tilling also destroys soil structure which requires the worms, insects, bacteria, and fungi to reestablish.

Tilling also wipes out the populations of microbes. Microbes live in their own stratum in the soil. Surface microbes live on the surface. If they get buried they die. Root zone microbes live deep in the soil. When they are exposed to the sunlight and fresh air, they die. When you rototill the soil you mix up all the microbes. The populations are not killed off completely, but they must repopulate before they can be effective in establishing soil structure and in feeding your plants.

Your soil might be compacted but not much. Why? Soil must be pretty wet to become compacted and contractors don't come to work when its raining. What you have is hard soil. The difference is that compacted soil has no air between the particles of minerals. The air gets squeezed out when someone walks or rolls heavy stuff around on WET soil. You can roll stuff around on dry soil for decades and not compact it. Hard soil is hard because it was allowed to dry too much and the beneficial soil fungi living there died off. The soil structure and air pockets are intact, but the microbe population is depleted.

All you have to do to soften hard soil is cover it with 2 inches of mulch (my preferred method) for several months (therein lies the rub). Most people don't want to wait that long. There are surfactants on the market which help the penetration of moisture into the soil. They are very expensive. One of my cohorts on another forum has experimented with them and found they work beautifully. Then he set about duplicating the performance with his own knowledge of chemistry. Once he found the right mix, then I set about getting similar performance using my limited knowledge of chemistry. The result is that you can soften your soil by spraying it with at least 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet of any clear shampoo. My favorite is generic baby shampoo. Spray it once followed by an inch of irrigation. Spray and irrigate again in 2 weeks. You can repeat every 2 weeks from now on if you like. I stopped with the second application and my soil has remained soft (when moist) for about a year now. Frankly, I was very surprised that this method worked and worked so fast.


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