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| We all know the no summer fertilizer rule. I've officially broken that rule and experimented by applying a very low concentration liquid fertilizer to several areas that were thinning due to high traffic, but I was careful about when and how much, and I realize it's an experiment. Overall, I follow the no fertilizing cool season grasses in summer rule.
But what about after seeding? You have to administer starter fertilizer. I'm planning to seed in a week or two. But by the rule of thumb, won't the high concentration starter fertilizer compromise the existing grass if the temperatures are warm enough at the time it's applied? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by Lawn_Hobby none (My Page) on Sun, Aug 5, 12 at 22:45
| btw, I should add that my low concentration recovery feeding was just two weeks ago, during a cooler-than-normal span of a few days. Another question that goes along with the initial one in the first posting is, what is the latest part of the fall (in CT) that you can put down normal chemical fertilizers without worrying about damaging grass? |
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- Posted by Lawn_Hobby none (My Page) on Sun, Aug 5, 12 at 22:46
| Sorry, I meant latest part of the summer, before fall. Is it basically when teh weather is consistently below 80 degrees? |
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| "But what about after seeding? You have to administer starter fertilizer." You don't have to add starter at the time of seeding. Seeds will germinate all by themselves without starter. Actually it makes more sense to add it after the first mowing, when growth really starts to happen and it has long enough roots to actually use all those nutrients. I usually do a half app with the seeds, another half app after the second mowing. "I'm planning to seed in a week or two. But by the rule of thumb, won't the high concentration starter fertilizer compromise the existing grass if the temperatures are warm enough at the time it's applied?" If you are overseeding, it's probably better to wait till you mow for the first time. The starter will increase topgrowth and with all the watering you will be doing fungal disease will be an issue, and it will also crowd out the new grass to an extent. "I should add that my low concentration recovery feeding was just two weeks ago, during a cooler-than-normal span of a few days. " Doesn't matter, the fertilizer in summer forces topgrowth, which depletes nutrient stores, and increases the need for more water. For CT you want to shoot for around Labor Day, but that's just a way to remember it. When the weather turns dryer, and the nights cooler (low sixties, high fifties) is a good time for the first synthetic fall feeding. |
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- Posted by Lawn_Hobby none (My Page) on Mon, Aug 6, 12 at 12:33
| You may have just saved me from having to deal with fungus in new grass. I'll definitely take your advice. As for the area I fertilized, it's going to be overseeded anyway...and as you know, we've been getting tons of rain, too. |
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- Posted by Lawn_Hobby none (My Page) on Mon, Aug 6, 12 at 17:40
| And btw...that area was yellow (not brown). I was thinking it might be nitrogen deficiency chlorosis. So I added just a touch of N (no idea what would happen - a true experiment). And what do you know, it's three weeks later, and after that and the rain, this little patch of grass is green for the first time since it was planted almost a year ago. Did it compromise the roots? I have no idea. But on the surface it appears to have helped the color. What is stranger, is I have seen lawn service companies out and about, putting down applications of N the past week or two. Some of it might just be insect control, but in other places, you can definitely smell the fertilizer. I wonder why they do it...just to make money? Are they really in the business of damaging grass? If so, that's reason enough to only hire a lawn serivce who is knowledgeable and cares about such topics as this one. |
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