"Matching" is a tough question to address. NTEP rates the genetic color of Midnight and Bewitched as nearly identical on average, but you should compare color ratings of an NTEP site near you to see if you need to blend all three grasses in the rapair spots to help soften any stark color differences. The other main factor, for me anyway, is leaf texture and Midnight and Bewitch have a .4 diference in average rating. I've found a .3 difference to be noticable, but that's me. Once again the leaf texture rating vary form test site to test site and you should consult the ratings for a test site near you to determine if the blade texture is going to be an issue.

I strongly suggest you topdress with peat moss rather than peat and unless you need to level out the soil, you don't need to roll.

Now the big issue and this is where I have found blade texture (width) to be a problem. It is almost imposible to succesfully overseed, with much in the way of noticable results, into a healthy stand of grass even with a slit seeder. The new seed will take in bare and thin spots and these areas will emphasize any substantial diferences (at least in the eye of a discerning beholder) in cultivar color or blade width. This has been my experience even with a low cut and slit seeding and others report the same lack of results, but that hasn't stopped me from doing it every Fall and some Springs for the past few years.
Best to you, you may have better luck.

This post was edited by grass1950 on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 1:25

Thanks for your response. I spent "crazy" money on that Bewitched seed...as in everyone told me I was crazy to pop 200 bucks on grass seed! Between the Midnight and PR (that I'm trying to diminish with the bewitched overseed) I don't know if I'd notice a minor blade width difference...but the color differences do drive me nuts, thus the relentless overseeding. I like the dark green, fine blade look that has that soft, velvet feel to it. I fought creeping bentgrass but a little still remains- should kill it while doing the other repairs but it's so hard to keep killing stuff and reseeding...I'll never get the perfection my eye craves and strangers who don't see the flaws think I'm certifiable to kill the neighborhood's "perfect" lawn. How I avoided having a stroke watching the clod boots all over my lawn (where they didn't need to be) these past weeks is beyond me. I understand exactly what you mean about seeding in a stand of thick, healthy turf and have always wondered if I was simply feeding the birds high priced seed by not rolling it in and top dressing the whol lawn with peat moss- I work it with a rake to get it fine and clump free. Are rollers really heavy to push or can I cut the water in half to lighten the load?

I don't think seed to soil contact is the issue in getting seed to germinate into a healthy existing stand. I think it's sun light and competition for for water and nutrients, so I doubt rolling and topdressing are going to make much of a difference in success rate.
The best overseeding results I have had were when I scalped the existing turf, verticut with the slit seeder which thinned the existing stand out considerably, then slit seeded (with KBG you can spread the seed and then run the verti-cutter/slit seed over the lawn to bury the seed with little damage to the seed I'd advise against trying this wioth the larger fescue and rye seeds as it does appear to damage the seed). Be aware, this does do quite a bit of damage to the existing lawn, but it opens/thins up the turf to the new seed for better germination of the new seed.
I can't really say how much effort is required to use a push roller. The last time I used one was over 40 years ago, but I don't remember it as being any small effort-expecially on a slope. I do know a 50# bag of fertilizer seems a lot heavier now than it was even 10 years ago--I guess it's all relative.
As an aside: I have a primarily Midnight lawn and was considering either a full reno or overseeding with Bewitched because I wanted a darker monostand. After looking at NTEP, I just couldn't justify it. In fact the test sites actually show Midnight proving darker than Bewitched in my area. Other than wanting a darker turf, I really like Midnight's texture and other characteristics. What issues are you having with Midnight?

I love the look of Midnight but what tempted me to add Bewitched was the improved disease resistance. Every summer the areas of my yard that get full sun most of the day really struggle...not sure if it's a dormancy thing, or summer patch but it doesn't look good after a couple 90 degree days. I've tweaked the watering, had what appeared to be a recovery using corn meal (the temps also dropped) and we also started misting the grass mid day and wetting the sidewalks to tame the heat and save the edges of the lawn. You've talked me out of slit seeding and my shoulders talked me out of rolling...so bring on the birdies to enjoy a $200 feast of "bewitching" quality! I'm burning alot of green trying to get greener and the most successful result thus far has been the very economical alfalfa...go figure. The only synthetic I've used this year is crabgrass control and hit some little patches of that weed with the little blue flower that travels from the neighbor's yard. If another utility shows up next summer to dig, replace, and basically ruin my yard...I'll be posting from jail.

Try to stay out of jail. I wasn't trying to talk you out of slit seeding. It's the only process that has had any decent results for me in overseeding. I have the same problems with the edges along the walks and general heat stress, but they seem to recover well come fall. Keeping it mowed high helps the heat stress sumewhat. Wait until you start using Milorganite. The green should knock your socks off.
One other thing that really pays off (in just about every way--greening, turf health and, so far summer heat/disease resistance), is to make sure you winterize this fall with synthetics--see my post below "The Book on KBG" for details. The correct Fall fertilization routine really does make a big difference.
Good luck with your repairs and I hope the Bewitch takes for you as I agree its improved disease characteristics are an advantage.

This post was edited by grass1950 on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 19:08

I emailed your KBG bible to myself- thank you. I'm afraid of scorching my lawn with dry fertilizers- striped a former yard and would hate to do that again. I was planning on tossing alfalfa pellets or meal before putting the grass to bed for winter. Can a dry fert with urea burn the grass? What brand should I buy for that 46-0-0 feeding you suggested? Is there a hose/water liquid version of something that would provide iron, urea and the other nutrients you recommend for that last feeding after top growth has stopped? Sorry for asking so many questions...one more- can these synthetic fertilizers be used on the "new" grass I hope to have established by doing the repairs and overseeding... and what should the bag say on it so I know I've chosen the right one? Thanks again- you're a patient guy as well as a knowledgeable one on all things grassy : )

I know of no substitute (liquid, organic or otherwise) other than pilled uncoated urea that will work for the last application and give the desired benefits. 46-0-0 is the fertilizer of choice because it is very inexpensive (around $20 per bag- no specific brand and some stores bag their own) and is available at most garden centers, seed stores, or feed stores, but any fast release (uncoated) urea (e.g. 24-0-5) can be used--it will just take more product to get 1#/k and increase the cost.
An over application of any synthetic can cause "burn" but usining a broadcast spreader rather than a drop spreader will reduce/eliiminate striping. Correctly calculating the total amount of product to apply 1#/k and lowering the the application rate of the spreader by closing the spreader opening down and using multiple passes until the total amount of product is spread over the lawn can eliminate any possiblity of burn. In addition because this last "winterizer" application is applied once the turf has either stopped or dramatically reduce top growth and temperatures are low, there is reduced chance of burn.
Slow release (coated) synthetic fertilizers are no more likely to burn a lawn than some organic fertilizers (e.g/ Milorganie, Chickee-Doo-Doo, etc.) unless applied to damp/wet grass.
Except for their cost on a pound for pound basis for the N, organics are a fine alternative to synthetics when temperatures are hign enough and moisture is available for the microarganisms to process the organic fertilizer into N, but as I said, no organic (temps will be too low) will substitute for the winterizer application. The benefits of early Spring greening, Spring spreading and turf health from a synthetic late "winterizer" N application on KBG are dramatic and well worth the effort.
Synthetics are safe for new grass after the new grass's need for a third mowing.
As an Aside, if I had $200 of seed, once Summer temps break (last week of August), I'd go ahead and cut the lawn down to 1-1 1/2" in stages over several days, verticut the lawn (basically an agressive thatching), rake, overseed, slit seed/veritucut again to bury the seed at 1/4", apply a starter fertilizer and lightly water 3 times a day until germination.
Hope this has been useful.

You've been very helpful! Water in after application? After my final cut and raking before snow falls, would it be worth it to save some Bewitched for dormant seeding as well? All this talk of Fall and Winter reminds me of one thing...it's still Summer! Going fishin...thanks for all the great advice and I'll try not to be a chicken regarding that slit seeder!

Always water fertilizer in after application, even organics.
Saving some seed for dormant seeding (or repair/fill-in) is fine, BUT remember it wont germinate until next Spring and you may run into a conflict with a Spring pre-emergent. Scotts does make a starter fertilizer with mesotrione for the pre-m, but it is an expensive option as it is only effective for 6 weeks.
Time to seed will be upon you way too soon, so enjoy the fishing while you can.

This post was edited by grass1950 on Sun, Aug 4, 13 at 11:45