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| Here is an article in the Charlotte Observer today about ditching fescue for a warm season type of grass. The comments on the bottom are just as entertaining as the article itself.
http://www.charlotteobserver.com/2012/09/21/3546604/more-homeowners-sw itching-lawns.html |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| posting a link for it versus cut and paste. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Going to a warm season lawn
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- Posted by texasredhead z8Texas (My Page) on Sat, Sep 22, 12 at 11:24
| We lived in Charlotte for a couple of years and the grass type was a constant problem. You can purchase large bags of Kentucky 31 fescue for pratically nothing. However, one seed makes one blade of grass and I don't remember it spreading at all. Common bermuda can be seeded and grows like a weed but it does go dormant in the winter and that seemed to be a big problem with my neighbors. Here in the Dallas area, many overseed their St.Augustine and bermuda lawns with annual rye grass to maintain a green winter lawn. |
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| Thanks for the really interesting article, Sprinks! Enjoyed reading it. |
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| Don't do it, you will regreat. Fescue and Bluegrass are best adapted in your area and are usually green year round once they are fully established. Till your soil, add some compost and topsoil, then re-seed with Fescue (turf type) and Bluegrass - you will have a dark green and durable lawn that can potentially be green year round in your area. On average, summers in NC are relatively short (for a warm season grass) and mild which favors cool season grasses. |
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- Posted by dchall_san_antonio 8 San Antonio (My Page) on Wed, Sep 26, 12 at 23:35
| I don't think anyone was going to do anything, but since auteck through it out there, I feel a need to reply. DO NOT TILL. There is almost never a good reason to rototill prior to planting grass seed. I have a problem with tilling for veggie gardens, but since that is waaay off topic, I'll hold back. The reason you don't want to till for a lawn is that fluffy soil you churn up will take years to settle again. When it does settle, it takes on the profile of the soil underneath the soil that did not get rototilled. In other words, it gets bumpier and bumpier each year for three years. Don't add compost unless you have poisoned your soil. Most soil already has the microbes that compost would be bringing. Do not add topsoil unless you have drainage issues. If you do not have drainage issues and you bring in topsoil, you are very likely to create drainage issues with the topsoil. I have a collection of photos showing what happens when you topdress 1/8 inch per year over a 40 year period. |
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