Eighty percent TTTF means you have 20% of something else, and that is very significant. What does it say on the label? If it contains perennial ryegrass, turn it down. No cool-season grass is more disease prone than ryegrass, but it germinates fast so people "think" they like it.

If it contains KY bluegrass, just bear in mind that the percentages are calculated on weight, and KY bluegrass seed is very tiny, a fraction of the size of fescue seed. So a very small single-digit percentage of bluegrass can mean more bluegrass than you might imagine. If that's what you want, fine. But you should be aware of that.

It's tough to say how it will blend in your lawn without knowing what you already have, or what exactly is on the seed label.

And by the way, if the seed label (which legally must be on the bag) indicates any percentage or fraction of a percentage of weeds or "other crop" (a euphemism for weeds) -- do not buy that seed. You can buy locally designed mixes and blends with 0.00% of those.

Maybe we are lucky in the KC area, but we have three very large, privately owned garden centers that all provide their own region-specific seed mixes and blends, and I have yet to see one that doesn't have 0.00% for weed and other crop seeds on the labels. The one I have purchased is $100 for 50#, and at $2 a pound for the best quality seed with no weeds or junk grasses, I think that is a bargain.

There are some things worth skimping on, but no one is ever sorry they paid for the best quality grass seed, because we have to live with it forever -- just like we are still living with the garbage Tri-Star seed a landscaper put on our lawn five years ago, rather than the "Overtime" fescue blend I had told him to get from our local Grass Pad store. Every year when the orchard grass come up through the fescue, I think of how I want to strangle that landscaper.

Well maybe the garden centers in the north have to provide region-specific seed. In the south the only seed worth getting is bermuda - and that stuff is not worth getting IMHO.

I absolutely agree that nobody regrets getting the best seed. Except that one guy from a year or so ago. He spent a ton for his seed and put it down in April. He had full blown crabgrass by July. Once we explained what he had done, I think he regretted getting the best. If you are going to do it right and seed in the fall, then get the best you can afford. If you are going to do it wrong and seed in the spring, then get the cheap stuff.

Teammates Plus has about 9% Shamrock KBG. About 80% TTTF cultivars. if you previously had TTTF or fine fescue then all should look natural. Reminder to broadcast spread into aerating holes to minimize bunching. I also find a top dressing of Turface goes a long way to establishing the seed. I just over seeded with Lesco and chose the regular Teammates because of the specific cultivars of TTTF in it.

The Lesco seed is top quality, sealed and labeled, and less questionable than anything sold out of a trash can at a garden center sporting a handwritten sign with cute epithets.

For your information annual rye grass differs from perennial rye. The rye used in both Lesco blends is Palmer III. I provide a link about Palmer III below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Pro Seeds Marketing

Shamrock is VERY prone to fungal diseases, stop using that. Get some Midnight Bluegrass or a blend of Bluegrass like Excursion, Award, and Solar Eclipse for example.

The 80/20 Fescue/Blue is correct, that's what we use here in the Raleigh area. It produces a beautiful turf once established.

You can go with 95/5, 90/10, 85/15, and 80/20 Fescue/Bluegrass mixture. I preffer the 80/20, a 50 lb. Bag carries 19 million seeds all together. The lower the % of Bluegrass, the fewer the total seed count.