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mrbigelow

New sod browning -- too much water?

mrbigelow
10 years ago

Hello!

I am new to this forum and had a question about my new sod. I'm not too sure what type of sod this is, but you might be able to get a better idea due to the close photo I've provided of the blades.

This sod has been installed for just about three weeks now and was placed over clay. The clay was given a final grading before placing the sod. The sod was not rolled (in case someone is curious).

Per the landscaper's instructions, I have been watering the sod for 45 minutes, twice a day, for the past two weeks -- morning (3am) and evening (4pm/5pm). I have been watering with an in-ground irrigation system -- 45 minutes per zone.

This section of grass (the back yard) is on the east side of my house, so it receives full sun until noon and then it starts to taper off as it receives shade from my house. The back yard is 6000 square feet.

A little over two weeks after the sod installation, I started to notice these blades of grass going brown/yellow and becoming spotty. The sod has never once dried out completely and seems as though its taking a while to take root. It IS starting to take root in places, but seems as though its taking a while. It has been very mushy and we haven't walked on it, as it leaves large sinking foot prints.

One more thing to note is that the sod was finished on two separate days. The sections of sod that were placed on the first day (the majority) is the batch that's turning brown. The sod that was placed on the second day is much more lush and full and doesn't seem to be turning. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it, but figured this was worth mentioning. Bad batch?

Anyways, personally, without much knowledge of these things, I have the assumption that I am over-watering. I feel like 45 minutes twice a day, especially with the efficiency of an irrigation system, its just receiving too much water. BUT, after sending these pictures and concerns to the landscaper, he said "that doesn't look too bad, just keep watering it 45 minutes twice a day."

Opinions?!

Comments (6)

  • mrbigelow
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    (more photos)

  • mrbigelow
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Here's one more photo showing the difference between the two sections of sod that were installed. The browning section was the sod installed first, and the dark green sections were installed two days later.

    This is one main reason that I feel as though it could have been a bad batch. Then again....I don't know much about these types of things.

  • auteck
    10 years ago

    Stop watering the sod at night/afternoon, you're creating fungus!

    The soil should have been tilled and ammended prior to intalling the sod. If you haven't fertilized already, do so now.

  • dchall_san_antonio
    10 years ago

    This is the second time I've seen this this year. It was not 45 minutes, it was 4 to 5 minutes. Big difference, huh!? All you have to do is moisten the sod, not drench the soil 2 feet down. At this point you should probably not water until the grass looks dry. It's already knit into the underlying soil with all that moisture. Just let it go until you see the blades fold together. Then water it...for 45 minutes. Actually get some cat food or tuna cans and place them around the yard. Time how long it takes to fill those. Then water for that time next time you need water. It should be at least a week. The idea with watering mature grass is to do it deeply and infrequently. Deeply is 1 inch. Infrequently is once a month in the cool months changing gradually to once every week in the hottest heat of summer.

    You do have a fungal disease in the older grass. Those are disease lesions on the blades (excellent pictures, by the way). This is going to sound crazy, because it still sounds crazy to me, but down here people have good results simply washing disease spores down into the soil with soap. The microbes in the soil take care of the spores. The treatment is to spray with 3 ounces of baby shampoo or any clear shampoo. That is 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. This is the same treatment as for hard soil. Spray it now and make that the last time you water for several days. But watch it very carefully. If new grass shoots get the disease after you stop watering, then you'll have to treat it.

    If your soil was graded, that is the perfect preparation for new seed or sod. Rototilling is the worst thing you could do in prep for grass. I disagree with doing it for a veggie garden, too, but for different reasons. Definitely grade instead of rototill.

  • mrbigelow
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thank you so much for your replies! I had a feeling that this was the case (over-watering and/or fungal infection).

    The landscaper even came by yesterday and checked it out and said "oh its ok, just keep watering it!" I about fell off my rocker...

    I'm going to slow way down on the water and then fertilize.

    Thanks again!

  • Anna
    3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    I just found this thread and I am having a similar problem. Same type of installation (zoysia directly on Georgia clay that has been raked well). The edges are dying and now some of the grass on the inside seems to be too. we were told to water it, especially the edges, but not too much (whatever that means). I water in the morning and by evening the soil and the clay below are still damp. The grass at the bottom of our hill is almost soggy. I guess I’m worried because he said it’s dying because it isn’t being watered enough but everything seems to stay wet. It’s only been a week and a half but I’m so nervous it will die!