Kentucky Bluegrass takes 2 to 3 weeks for germination so more than likely you're not seeing any of it yet. The PRG will typically germinate in a week. Not sure on the creeping red fescue.

Next up, you say you put out the seed, raked, rolled, and then watered. Was this a one time watering? New seed has to be kept moist to germinate. This means lightly watering 3 to 4 times per day about 5 to 10 minutes each depending on your sprinklers. You want to keep the seed and the top layer of soil moist at all times until you have complete germination. Wind and temps will dictate how often you need to water.

If the seed was washed away you will have no choice but to seed that area again.

Good question. I do have it set to water at 6am, 12, and 3pm for 5 minutes in each zone. I don't have a 4th timer option so I just press manual operation when I get home at 6pm, depending on the heat of the day.

I measured the PRG and it is 3 inches long already. I've read to mow once it gets to 4 inches. It doesn't sound like a good idea seeing as the KBG is lagging behind.

When should i reseed the washed away area and should I rake or just spread topsoil over it?

Thanks!

Three times a day is just fine for seed sprout, although depending on how much water your system puts down that five minute shot may not be enough.

Fortunately, you can step that up at any time you like.

If you want, you can also adjust the timings to 6 AM, 2 PM, and 6 PM so you don't have to send in a manual watering in the evenings.

Although you seeded on a near-perfect date of August 23rd, a lot of the sprout will still be almost random and any time over 2 to 3 weeks. Bluegrass takes longer, I had noticeable sprouting even at week 6 although my circumstances were most unusual (I seeded during the hottest late August and early September on record, with temperatures hitting 100 degrees regularly).

You can repair those washed areas any time you like, and the sooner the better to give it time to sprout before your (hard, long, and very shortly arriving) winter.

I was worried that the high sun around noon would dry it out too much by the time 6PM came around so that's why I have 4 instead of 3. I tend to just glance at it from my window and see if it has a darker, wet color.

If I'm to repair the washed areas, can i walk on the area now? With a 4000 sqft area, i'm bound to step on some area to get to the areas that need repair.
And I still haven't received a direct answer on this but I'll ask again -
should I rake or just spread topsoil over the new seed? Maybe even roll it too?

>>I was worried that the high sun around noon would dry it out too much by the time 6PM came around so that's why I have 4 instead of 3. I tend to just glance at it from my window and see if it has a darker, wet color.

If it works for you, I'm thrilled. If you're watering four times, three times, or twice, it's all good.

>>If I'm to repair the washed areas, can i walk on the area now? With a 4000 sqft area, i'm bound to step on some area to get to the areas that need repair.

You'll have to, so I'd say yes. Just be careful, gentle, and try for minimal disturbance of areas that are sprouting. Any sprout you unseat is most likely going to die, but sometimes they surprise you.

>>And I still haven't received a direct answer on this but I'll ask again - should I rake or just spread topsoil over the new seed? Maybe even roll it too?

Raking is fine if you want to, I didn't. Any covering up to a quarter inch is fine, so top soil (or peat moss or compost) would work fine and it does help hold moisture...but it's not absolutely required. Don't exceed 1/4" coverage, and shooting for 1/8" is usually safer as any accidents still aren't likely to go over a quarter.

You can roll if you want, although covering the seed will also improve seed-soil contact. Most people recommend rolling...I never did it.

If you're detecting that there's a wide range of tolerable conditions on just about everything except minimum watering, you're right. :)

Ha, yes I guess it is just as simple as that. I'll get out there and reseed tonight then.
Thanks all!

So... Seeding didn't help too much since it started getting really cold. It looks better filled in but the grass is very thin still. I'm thinking of seeding now/soon. Any advice for this? The forecast says it'll get below freezing at night. For this reason I don't want to spread seed in fear of freezing seeds, and don't want to startup the sprinklers in fear of bursting irrigation lines. I also don't want to compete with weed seeds.

Is this right? -

Spreads starter fertilizer with weed preventer(something that won't prevent grass seeds from germinating), spread seed everywhere at 3 lbs/1000 sqft, water multiple times daily unless it rains.

I'm not a fan of spring seeding, and with tempertures going below freezing you probably don't need to be watering multiple times per day. Evapotranspiration levels are low enough that once should be fine until temperatures start to rise, and sprout won't happen until soil temperatures start holding over fifty.

It'll lock you into watering this summer as well. The grass won't have the roots to last long without watering.

Right. I'm not a fan of having the grass compete with weed seeds either but I have no choice.

So you're suggesting one watering once the seed is down and that's it until soil Temps remain higher? What about seeds freezing? I suppose if I looked at the way nature already runs it's course... Seeds freeze and thaw all the time.

To starter fertilize with weed preventer or no?

Freezing seed isn't an issue for grass, so no worry there. One method of seeding the lawn is a winter seeding, which goes down anywhere from December through March. Sprouts are also tolerant of frosts and freezes; grass is not a delicate plant.

Water once, certainly, to settle things, but after that keep an eye on soil temperatures. Above fifty at the surface, test the soil regularly to see if it's damp. if it is, great. If it's getting dry, water. If that's becoming a habit, set the watering system to keep it damp.

You can use a weed preventer (like Tupersan) with your seeding, but it's fairly expensive, covers a limited number of weeds, and only lasts a month. With a spring seeding, it'll probably be June before you can get a stronger pre-emergent down.

Sounds good. I will give that a shot. If all else fails, I always have sod.