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Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

Posted by jvallee 7 (My Page) on
Thu, Sep 15, 11 at 12:54

I know there are folks out there that can help...
I am in SE VA and am ready to chew nails over getting grass to grow.
Labor day weekend I pulled up most of the ugly centipede grass, dethatched as deep as the dethatcher would go about, about 2" deep, raked it up, seeded TTTF and starter fertilizer and set up watering schedule. I also put down gypsum (advice from a local garden center) Then Trop storm Lee came with 5 days of torrential rain. Most grass seed washed away and you couldn't even tell I had used the dethatcher - ground was back to hardpan.
The space I am having trouble with gets full fun most of the day and is uneven due to tree removals a few years ago. There also are roots 1-2" below the surface from a river birch nearby.
I have continued watering in hopes what was left will germinate but I'm finding moss and clover growing instead.
I'm thinking of getting a load of topsoil, spreading it out, then using the dethatcher again to mix in the topsoil, then aerate, seed and fert.
Am I missing anything?
If I can't get grass to grown I'll have nothing but mud all winter.

Any input will be greatly appreciated!


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

I feel your pain as far as clay goes. My lawn is a little better than other area since I have had something growing in it for 16 years, but I started a garden in my back yard that was nothing but hard clay.

I few questions and comments.

Why would you use a dethatcher again if you have already dethatched?

I have two large River Birch trees in my lawn and grass grows fine around them.

I have no experience with this, but why do you want to level out the yard on this second go around? Was it not needed before? Maybe someone else has some experience with this given your time frame.

Moss growing can be an indication of a low ph level. Have you done a soil test? Without one you may want to add some calcitic fast acting lime (not dolomite!) at bag rate.

There is some debate regarding the benefits of core aeration. Disturbing the soil tends to bring up some weed seeds but I think if you have hard clay as you indicated it may be something to do at this point in time. I did last year and it turned out okay but I did have an outbreak of weeds which I eventually dealt with.

I would water the lawn real well the day before core aerating. This will soften up the soil (clay) some so that you get some plugs pulled when you aerate (the seeds will actually grow in these holes). Apply some calcitic lime. Seed. Top dress with a quarter inch of compost(very helpful). Then start the watering program. You can apply some more fertilizer (half rate?) in a few weeks. Deal with the weeds later this fall and/or spring once you get the grass established.


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

My thinking is to breakup the clay with the dethatcher - too many roots to use a tiller plus I'm not physically strong enough to use one. I will not be trying to level out - that would prob take a bulldozer...

I debated whether to lime or not. I had put down lime this spring but I'm willing to do it again. I will double check what I have in the shed to make sure it's the right kind.

I also aerated spring before last. Yes I had weeds that I dealt with but all 3 adjoining neighbors have weed only lawns so I was prepared.

Are you recommending compost top dressing instead of topsoil? And to not try to mix it in with the dethatcher?

I look forward to your reply.


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

First off I want to say that I may not have the best answers to your scenario but here is what I would do based on my understanding. Hopefully some of the other knowledgeable forum folks will chime in.

Yes, use compost which will eventually blend away into your soil. Topsoil does not breakdown and depending on how much you use can change the lawn level. Compost will help with moister retention for the seeds during the germination process, help hold the seeds in place if you get a downpour, help with soil seed contact and will help the organic nature of your soil. A win win scenario. Applying a quarter inch of compost is time consuming but well worth it in the long run.

As far a mixing it in with the dethatcher, I would not disturb your soil any more that you already have. If anything I would core aerate. Some may suggest rolling the seed with a water roller for better soil seed contact.

Applying lime now is not that important with regard to getting your grass to grow now with the deadline you have. You can wait on a soil test and then start that process later this winter and next year. It takes a bit of time to change your ph level anyway. In addition you should not apply lime and fertilizer at the same time. You should at least have a few weeks spread.


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

You have been very helpful! I will go with compost top dressing and aerate, seed, fert and wait to lime next spring.

I actually aerated a 2'x2' really bad section yesterday before the rain..sadly some filled in already from runoff.

One more question... I bought some Moss-Out earlier in the year when I only had small patches. Do you advocate using it again?


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

Your garden center misled you about the Gypsum. Gypsum does nothing for clay in the East. Gypsum is only effective for loosening clay soils that are SODIC clays. Sodic clays exist mostly in the Southwest and Texas. The manufacturers omit that important detail in the hopes that desperate homeowners will try it as a solution.

Despite the fact that "everyone" in Virginia, NC, SC, and Georgia repeats the mantra that the soils are Clay, they tend to be a hard-packed soil that is sandy and sticks together with a reasonably small amount of Clay and other substances in the soil. Do a Jar Test to determine how much Clay you actually have...


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

Thanks for tip about "gyp" I suspected as much...
The local sewage treatment authority sells a soil conditioner of composted biosolids and paper/wood. Has an analysis of 2-2-0.
Would you consider this as an appropriate top dressing?
Would you also reapply the starter fert (24-24-4)?


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

I never recommend the application of fertilizers (other than for Nitrogen) without a soil test to determine what shortages you have. Same with the application of Lime. It is the equivalent of swapping parts at random when you have a car problem.

That said, using biosolid products like Milorganite on a regular heavy basis is OK. We often joke that you should only apply Milorganite and its brethren on days whose name ends in a "Y". That, and mulching in ALL of your Fall leaves will help with raising OM (organic matter) levels over the long-haul --- don't expect results in weeks or months. It takes years.


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RE: Help with restarting clay heavy lawn

I had never heard of Milorganite. It's analysis is 5-2-0.
HD sell it and is is MUCH cheaper than the local Nutrigreen product (which HD does not sell)
They also sell Nature's Helper soil conditioner which has gotten good comments elsewhere. I guess that's what I'll top dress with then put down the Milorganite.

I already mulch my leaves (I have 6 very large trees) with a vac/shredder/chipper and use in it my new 16x35 flower bed, reclaimed after smothering the english ivy that was there (a whole 'nother story...). Plus I have a large pile of limbs/branches/clippings and other yard debris waiting for me to run it thru the shredder and use somewhere.

All in all I think I now have a plan that should help me get greened up for the winter.

Thanks for all your input!!


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