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Fescue vs. Kentucky Bluegrass

PW25
11 years ago

I live in Lincoln, NE and this summer was a drought that also had water restrictions for our city, so my backyard and frontyard have turned to a brownish color rather than the normal, healthy green.

I am going to plant some seed this weekend, but had a few questions.

Should I do fescue or Kentucky bluegrass? I have no kids and 1 small dog.

Which grass is it that is the soft kind when you touch or lay on it?

I don't own a tiller or aerator. Can I still lay the seed?

Should I water the yard before I rake up the soil?

Do I need to buy top soil or what kind of soil do I need?

I have quite a large backyard. Would it be harmful to just plant all across the yard, even on some areas that don't need seeding? Should I apply more seed to bare spots and thin spots?

I really am not sure what type of grass I currently have. Will it hurt my grass if I plant 2 different types?

Does fescue give a nice look to it like KBG?

Comments (8)

  • goren
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Since you mention the use of Kentucky Blue I'm going to assume you wish to use a 'cool season' type grass.
    Generally, if a type of lawn turf has problems....i.e. turns brown when water is at a premium, or tends to die out during heat spells, or some other problem that is perplexing a homeowner....the usual advice is to try to overcome the problem by planting a seed that is not affected by what troubles the one type....so, and I'm sure the seed dealer will agree, plant a combination of grass seeds so that each can give its best when times are tough on one.
    A good combination for cool season type grass is 40% Kentucky Blue, 30% perennial ryegrass and 30% red fescue.
    Combinations approaching those percentages are found anywhere and everywhere so you shouldn't have any trouble finding.

    Its generally agreed that before you overseed an area that has already a lawn, correct any imperfections the ground might have...i.e. fill in with topsoil any depressions, any mounds that can be rolled and thus levelled, any bare patches that are best fixed with plugs....etc etc.
    A toplayering of 1/2" to 1" topsoil or compost or triple mix...you decide...is laid either before, or after the scattering of the seed.
    Sometimes seed is administered with the fertilizer spreader...a starter fertilizer can be considered and applied with the seed.
    Scattering by hand is easy as long as you apply a generous amount to the area. Seed is not inexpensive....but for a good turf it is recommended that you apply the best seed you can afford...it pays dividends in the end.

    If you are having to buy the topsoil...and your area is large...you can trust this formulae to find out exactly how much soil you would have to purchase.
    If the amount is large, then buying IN BULK is the least expensive.
    Measure the area you intend to work...length times width...
    IN FEET. That gives you square feet...multiply that times the depth IN INCHES....then multiply that figure times 3....and divide by 1000.
    That results in the number of cubic yards of soil you have to buy to cover the area.

    example...if the area is 25 feet by 50 ft..equals 1250 sq ft
    times depth..1" = 1250 X 3 = 3750 divided by 1000 =- 3.75 cubic yards of soil.
    Such amount is best bought in bulk...delivered by truck to your driveway--then by wheelbarrow to the area.

    If the area is wanted to be leveled first, then rolling can be done. Rolling can also be done AFTER the seeding process to better put the seed into contact with the soil.

    Overseeding is ..for me anyway...a ritual I follow every fall. It encourages strong turf that stands up to adversity...disease and pests.
    Generally, if you follow a regimen of fertilizing...the high nitrogen content can speed up filling in bare spots and greening up.
    Going cheap on the feeding program encourages weak growth...and if winter throws a hard freeze early, it can make for spring problems.

    Watering is also not cheap. But again watering is necessary for the grass roots to grow strong...so the usual recommendation of 1" of water (rain notwithstanding) per week is the norm and helps grass grow lushly.
    Only by experimenting with how you apply water can you learn about what your lawn needs.

  • grass1950
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nice reply tiemco.

  • PW25
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you for your responses! You have given very helpful information and I greatly appreciate it.

  • tiemco
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    If you want to seed those areas, you have to get that dead grass out of the way so the seed can lie on the dirt. I would power rake the whole yard to get all that removed before seeding. I can't tell the grass type however, you need close up pics of the blades for that, and they have to be clear pictures, not blurry.

  • PW25
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Okay. Yeah it was taken from my phone. You give me a good idea of what I need to do, though. Thanks.

  • Bert9999 J
    6 years ago

    why not post some newer pics of your new lawn and did you go all fescue or a fescue kbg blend