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| Hi all,
1st post so forgive me if I forget any info. I'm in the 5B zone and we get weeds every year but this year was over the top and embarrassing. I'm pretty sure that my yard has stopped responding to anything I put on it. So my plan is: 1. Power rake 2. Aerate 3. Pre-emergent Herbicide Does this sound right? Let me know if you need more info. : )
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Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by bassplayer7 6 (My Page) on Tue, Sep 20, 11 at 19:58
| Couple of questions. Where do you live? As in what city? Also, what have you been putting down that you lawn "has stopped responding to"? Do you have a lot of thatch (more then 1/2")? Only if you have a lot of thatch is power raking necessary. It really does a job to the yard, and I prefer avoiding it unless absolutely necessary. Right now do you have a thick stand of turf? Also, what kind of turf do you have? Honestly, the aerate part of your plan sounds fine, but I'm not so sure about the other two steps. I always apply Pre-M in the spring. Yes, things like dandelions will sprout in the fall, but if you want to get those you would blanket 2-4-D or something. What type of weeds have you been dealing with? Hopefully not too many questions, but this should help us give some tips. |
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| We live in Kansas City, Kansas area. I have been using Scotts Turf Builder With PLUS 2 Weed Control in the spring and I've been told that around here that we should apply a Pre-emergent in the fall. I usually use scotts products but will use whatever. I even went with a liquid version this year with the weed plus and didn't see any dandelions but crabgrass was the biggest problem. I'm not very good at identifying weeds. To control weeds last year I went with a Bayer product it seemed to help but felt I was throwing money out the window. We have Fescue Grass. I might say it's thick. We don't have any bare areas. By the way the our front yard faces Northwest and gets lot of sun in the summer. We have a sprinkler system but I threw in the towel this year and wasn't going to water weeds. O.o Probably a mistake. I'll check the thatch in the morning. I haven't power raked and have lived here 9 years. Sorry for the long post. Thanks for the questions. Let me know if you need more info. I really want to win next season. PDub |
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- Posted by bassplayer7 6 (My Page) on Tue, Sep 20, 11 at 21:27
| Hey, you are not far from me at all. :) Don't bother with the Pre-M in the fall. Pre-M does best with controlling crabgrass, and is put down in the spring, but most pre-emergent helps with other weeds. The Scotts Turf Builder with weed killer sounds like a weed and feed to me, which don't work very well. It's best to fertilize first, then weed killer a week or two later. I spray a general broadleaf herbicide in the spring, and also apply a Pre-M. I'm surprised you got by without watering over the summer. But as long as you don't have bare spots, that's good. I'm guessing it thinned out, though, and you are due for an overseed, but it might be too late for that. Shut the water off a day or two before you aerate, and aerate about 3 times. My understanding is that if one has healthy turf, they will never need to power rake. It should not be a routine thing at all. What's a rough percentage of the weeds to turf right now? |
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| Well thanks for the info. I checked the thatch and it isn't bad at all. So I'll pass on the power raking. What brand and type of fertilizer do you use for the fall? I'll search for the best way to overseed, Unless you have a good link. When you say aerate 3 times do you mean make three passes? I'm going to say 35% weeds. Although it might be worst. I'm a noob at lawns and it's showing. : ( Thanks again for all your help. |
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- Posted by bassplayer7 6 (My Page) on Wed, Sep 21, 11 at 21:05
| It depends on the situation for what fertilizer I use - as for the numbers. I use Lesco, although I have used other brands. I don't fertilize in the spring. It just makes good, healthy grass grow faster, which means one has to cut more often. Two applications in the fall. One late fall, one around Labor Day (OK, not technically fall). And one in the early summer/late spring (slow release). The best thing is to get your soil tested. That will tell you what you need to apply as far as the other macro nutrients. Either way go for 1lb of actual nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. and I would say something with a nice balance would do just fine for your yard (for example... 26-6-10). My yard is high in P and K so I put down straight N as in 30-0-0 (at roughly 3lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.) this fall. Yes, 3 passes with the aerator. 35% is terrible, but a round of broadleaf herbicide next spring would be a good step along with Pre-M (which typically does have some fertilizer in it BTW) at some point as well. |
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- Posted by bassplayer7 6 (My Page) on Wed, Sep 21, 11 at 21:21
| Here's an article on fescue from K-state |
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| Thanks for all the information and all your help. I running out of time and I'm going to get started asap. |
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