Well, this one presents some interesting challenges.

Exchange Capacity: 14.2: Quite good, the soil holds a fair amount of resources but isn't too difficult to change.

pH 7.3: Quite high. Avoid liming this soil until further notice!

OM 5.3%: Firmly in the Good range. Certainly organic feeding wouldn't be taken amiss, but this number is already quite nice.

Sulfur 15: Right in the middle of the optimum band, although we still have quite a lot of play in this number. That's good, we're going to play a bit.

Phosphorus 68: Low, particularly in light of your pH (where a number closer to 300 would be preferable). I've included starter fertilizer in my recommendations to start bringing this up as it's a severe limiter to your lawn.

Calcium 61%: At the lower level of optimal. I'm disinclined to fiddle with it.

Magnesium 31%: I'd love to know where this came from as it's extraordinarily high. It's not toxic, but it's sure going to make your soil tend to be very hard and tight. Shampoo applications will help loosen things up, but won't dispel the core issue--the magnesium. I can dispel this, but I'd rather see what a year of settling and natural rainfall (and irrigation) can do.

Potassium 2%: At the lower end of tolerable, and I can see this one heading off the cliff soon. I've added potassium sulfate to the recommendations.

Most Micros: Tolerable to good. The one (zinc) I'd fiddle with, I'm going to let ride while making adjustments to the major nutrients.

Iron 219: Fine, actually, although color is going to suffer at your pH. You can use Milorganite as your primary feed as it'll also adjust your iron up slowly (and raise your organic matter percent, plus make that pH matter a little less).

Recommendations:

Soonest: Apply any good starter fertilizer at the bag rate. Call landscapers and garden shops for potassium sulfate, which they can usually order for you.

Two weeks later, call it September 28th: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet of lawn (and gardens, if you have them).

October 15: Apply starter fertilizer at bag rate.

October 30: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand.

When growth stops: Winterize with any high-nitrogen (low phosphorus, low potassium) fertilizer. We don't add P and K at this point because it'll tend to run off over the winter.

May 1, 2015: Apply 2 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand.

Labor Day 2015: Feed with starter fertilizer at bag rate.

August 2015: Time for your soil test.

Thanks Morpheuspa. I plan on over seeding this weekend as the back yard is still pretty thin from being newly seeded earlier this year.

I will apply starter fertilizer with over seeding. Does your recommendation of potassium sulfate change since there will be new seed down?

Perhaps area is underlain with dolomitic limestone? I know we've got that here, 200 miles to your north, and it is a good thing for most horticultural purposes. This may not explain the high magnesium however, as the ratio of calcium to that element differ quite a bit from that found in most examples of dolomite. Hmmm?

+oM

With the seeding, let's not stress it. Skip the September 28th application of potassium sulfate. It would be OK, but I'm not a fan of stressing two week old grass.

Instead, let's add one on April first of 2015. If you're still under snow cover, just hold off until the ground unfreezes and isn't likely to freeze again. Then shift that May first application to a month after the time you did the earlier one.