thanks

Well you can certainly that, but if you were watering enough you could use a roller to get it somewhat flat.

Also what do i need to do fertilizer wise after it gets rooted

You fertilize every 30 days, see the BERMUDA BIBLE.

how much should i be watering it now?

Several times a day to keep the area very wet to the point of being soggy. It is almost impossible to over water. Just do not let puddles form to sit there over night.

You will regret not getting the area very flat before you laid sod. It takes a ton of effort and sand to do it later. It's difficult to cut bermuda properly (under 1") with a reel mower, if it is bumpy. I struggle with this now.

When I renovated another area this year, I followed TW's advice and had someone grade the area with a tractor and box blade. It is nice and flat compared to where we previously used a skid steer on other sections.

A little late for that now, that should be done just before laying the sod, besides it is not really needed for sod. Not sure where the OP lives or when the first frost is due, but applying a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio fertilizer 30 days before the first frost would be a good idea.

The main problem I am hearing right now is the OP has not properly watered his sod because he/she said it was turning brown around the edges. That tells me it is not being watered and probable was not rolled when laid.

OP is Original Poster (that's you).

"I am not saying i am a pro sod layer or grass grower by any means."

Texas Weed is. He's an expert when it comes to warm season grasses (especially Bermuda). If you read and follow his Bermuda Bible, you're almost sure to have a great looking lawn. If you google Bermuda Bible, you should be able to find it in the first couple of links.

That is a huge problem and needs addressed immediately. It will be a huge task as it will take 100 pounds of lime per 1000/ft2 applied in two applications two weeks apart. This is the likely reason your earlier attempts failed, and likely to do you in again if not taken care of.

And the bad news does not stop there. Your soil is naturally acidic, and will be life long battle to combat every year with lime applications.

Or you could wait till next summer when the Bermuda dies and plant Centipede as a 5.5 PH is ideal for centipede.

A little late for that and is why I did not mention it. The idea solution would be a tractor and box blade to re-grade the area, but too late for that now. If you think it is bumpy now, wait till next spring once the soil settles.

That does stink about the box blade though i believe they used one on at least one of the houses near me but i didnt have access to one o well.

I can take a pic, do i just put it one photo bucked then post it below where i am typing in the op. link url box?

To your fertilizer issue I hesitate to answer because I have no idea of what your soil needs. 3-1-2 and 4-1-2 ratios are considered Mother Natures natural balance and recommended in lieu of a soil test which will give you exact ratios. I am comfortable in telling you 10-10-10 (1-1-1 ratio) is not a good choice. If you applied 10 pounds of product per 1000/ft2 to get 1 pound of nitrogen, you will likely be applying way to much phosphorus and potassium.

If you live in a city, you should have a Lesco dealer which has 3-1-2 and 4-1-2 ratio fertilizer. You can even check the Orange box store because in most areas they carry Lesco 15-5-10 (3-1-2). However keep this in mind; you only need one application of a balanced fertilizer per year either the last application in fall or the first application in spring. For every other monthly feeding use a straight nitrogen like a slow release 39-0-0.

YES! I say this all the time. A skidsteer or a bobcat is NOT the tool to level soil. You need a tractor and box blade. Hopefully someone will learn from your suffering. But back to keithj, he used a tractor with a rototiller. If I had my druthers, I'd much rather see that tool used than a hand held rototiller. At least the tractor doesn't go bucking around the yard like the hand held. It looks like he did the best with what he had to work with.

keithj said, I didn't really get the ground level enough so it is kinda wavy looking top dress with sand in spring?

No, not in the spring. Wait until mid to late June before tackling the leveling project. You have a window when the summer is at peak heat to do it. The grass has to be growing well and have at least a month of heat left afterwards to recover from the process. It can be done but it is probably not the process you are thinking of. Come back next June to remind us and we can talk about it. To get a head start on the process you can search this forum for dproudx and see how he did it. There are some specific tricks he used that make it successful.

trplay said, don't panic. That's right. All you need is one strand of bermuda to survive and next summer you will have a full bermuda lawn. The bumps will settle for three years. In the mean time you have to deal with scalping with the mower. You can level it next summer and it will continue to settle but you might be able to deal with that later.

also here is my sample:
pH 5.4
Buffer pH 7.55

Phosphorus (P) 60 lbs/acre
Potassium (K) 136 lbs/acre
Calcium (Ca) 867 lbs/acre
Magnesium (Mg) 99 lbs/acre
Zinc (Zn) 3.7 lbs/acre
Manganese (Mn) 13 lbs/acre
Boron (B) 0.1 lbs/acre
Copper (Cu) 1 lbs/acre
Sodium (Na) 20 lbs/acre

Ok the key is the first number of 16. You want to apply 1-pound of nitrogen per 1000/ft2. So the amount of product per 1000/ft2 = 100/16 = 6.25 pounds/1000/ft2. So for 2500/ft2 = 6.25 x 2.5 = 12.5 pounds of product for 2500/ft2

Notice the perfectly smooth surface behind the tractor. Actually that pic looks like his last pass across the yard. That yard might have been a lawn 2 hours prior to that picture. Without doing anything except running the blade, it resurfaces the area leaving it ready for seed or sod.

That picture is also a great place to notice the differences between the tractor and the bobcat-like machine. Notice the longer wheel base on the tractor. Notice also the longer body of the tractor and the relatively low position of the center of gravity. All these design elements combine to make the tractor a much more stable platform from which to run the blade. If the surface was rough at all, the small wheels of the bobcat will roll up and down in them causing it to buck and gouge its way across the yard. Whereas the large wheel of the tractor will roll over the bumps making for a much smoother ride producing a smoother surface on each pass.

That Ford rig with the wide blade is very popular for high production, finish grading.

When people state that using a water filled roller can or will cause soil compaction, I honestly can't see how, when my body weight in my every step far exceeds the weight per square inch that is spread out from the roller.

That is easy. Heck you can pick up you car with your breath and lung power. All you need is 3 pounds or less of weight to pick up you car.

T Dub, I haul cars for a livin'. I pick up cars all day long. 3 pounds less is only one less buffet at the truck stop ... and I can't do that!

Nitrogen.