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adam34996

Going all Milorganite - need weed advice

adam34996
9 years ago

I finally cancelled my lawn service because I am getting better results myself and looking to next years plan.

I have been using Milorganite on the lawn this year and I have top 3 lawn on my block. Next year I want to switch between milorganite and Soybean meal (where do i get Soybean meal?) but still want to control weeds.

Based on what I know - I should put down a crab grass per-emergent in early spring and a weed control in late spring/early summer. Is this a good route to take or something else I should do instead to control weeds?

Comments (3)

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago

    What your local resources are will dictate where to get soybean meal. Grain mills, if you have one in your area, are prime spots (call first, some do not sell to the public without an account). I'm fortunate to have one reasonably local to me.

    Barring that, farmer's co-ops often have it. Tractor Supply is worth a shot as well, as is any other farm store or animal feed store in your area.

    >>Based on what I know - I should put down a crab grass per-emergent in early spring and a weed control in late spring/early summer. Is this a good route to take or something else I should do instead to control weeds?

    If that works for you, go for it. All of our methods are going to differ.

    I put down a pre-emergent twice per year (the second shot just went tonight, matter of fact, to cover me through December). I use Prodiamine (Barricade, Guardrail), and the April application was just about to run out.

    The spring application takes care of most broadleaf weeds and most crabgrass since it's still in play through summer. The smaller, weaker late summer application covers P. annua and P. trivialis sprouting periods in fall.

    Individual weeds are treated by spot spraying, what few I get at this point (this entire year? One random zinnia sprouting under the rose bush, two pieces of crabgrass, and one random something I couldn't ID but died when I sprayed it).

    I usually try Tenacity first as the toxicity is very low to humans and amphibians, fish and insects. If that fails, Weed B Gone. Then I step up to painting with Round Up if necessary.

    Everything died this year from the Tenacity except the zinnia, which got transplanted into the gardens.

  • timtsb
    9 years ago

    If you only get a handful of weeds all year, why even bother spraying? Couldn't you just pull them?

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    9 years ago

    I'd disturb the turf's roots, which I really don't want to do unless I have to. Since I'm still running on the gallon of Tenacity I mixed early last year, I'm not too worried about toxicity (which is extremely low anyway) or resistance (which doesn't seem to happen).

    In the gardens, I use the Tenacity on nutsedge as it's not a good idea to pull it--you can't get all the little nutlets on the roots, so you tend to get 3 back for every 1 you pull. And the globe thistle is painful to pull, has deep tap roots, and the Tenacity does it better anyway.

    Really, the gardens are the only remaining place where I have weed issues any longer, and only there because there's space.