GreenThis,

I am no expert, but started caring about my lawn only this year, similar to you.

I initially wanted to overseed and repair my fescue lawn, but researched my options and decided to go with a total renovation - killing the entire lawn, fallowing the area for several weeks to kill weeds, and then reseeding.

I'm glad I did - all the grass matches, grows at the same rate, hardly any weeds, etc. Total strangers and neighbors who never talk to me are commenting, it is an amazing transformation.

Not sure about spring planting in Maine; spring seeding is a huge mistake where I am located as the spring grass can't survive normal August weather around here.

You have time to study your soil, get soil tests at Logan Labs, make amendments and gather supplies. My guess is aerating your soil will reverse your gains against the weeds by promoting new weed germination while your spring overseed is in progress. Many recommend against aerating for this reason, and instead opt for soil conditioners.

I didn't aerate or till and the seed came in just fine. I seeded right into the stubble of my killed lawn.

Were I you I would seed something quick-growing like annual rye in the spring to fill the bare spots and reduce weeds, apply a pre-emergent after the rye is established, and then start with a clean slate and renovate in the fall with bluegrass.

I would choose a pre-emergent that won't interfere with my fall seeding time.

I would hold off on decisions about soil amendments until the results of your soil tests are available.

More experienced people may give you better, more specific advice, but that's how I would approach it.

And good luck!

DUDE! Lots of good insight there with that reply, jmp. Even though sprayed the Weed-B-Gone, now is a better time to seed than spring. I like the idea of a fast germinating rye. It could be annual or perennial, but get something in asap. The new grass will have all winter to toughen up in preparation for next summer's heat. I would not spend big money on this seed. I would use this as a learning experience. Then spend the time and effort next August if you think you want to do a full reno.

Search this forum for my many comments about using shampoo instead of core aerating. I don't think aerating has any serious benefit. The one thing that people have mentioned that could be a benefit is grass seed seems to sprout down inside the holes left by the core removal. I'm not sure if that is a benefit or not as the soil back fills the holes over time.

So you just threw seed out into the stubbles and got results?

I have read articles explaing how the pre-emergence barrier is about 6 inches down into the soil. So after I water the herbicide in and wait a couple weeks would I be good to aer and seed in the spring? I am a big believer of aeration and since I do have some really sandy soils I would prefer to go that route.

I do live in a rental so spending big bucks is something I am not looking to do. This is really just practice for my own house someday.

I seeded into the stubble, rolled, and top-dressed, and commenced watering with timers. First week in September.

Those things were done after I killed the lawn completely and fallowed and spot sprayed for several weeks, waiting for the summer heat to break.

I can't recommend spring seeding, unfortunately - I've tried, the grass always dies in August.

Re-reading your post GreenThis,

I think my advice for a renovation is off-base - I didn't catch the part about it being the yard of a rental property. I think any landlord would go bananas if a tenant killed the entire lawn.

I have been doing some research and found a product called GreenView. It contains tupersan which prevents crab grass germination but allows for grass seed to germinate. Maybe using this as a pre-emergence with aeration will help?