I'm going to make the assumption that the bamboo was alive and not just rhizomes sitting there. I say that because it looks like a bamboo shoot sticking up in the lower right corner of the second picture. You did not have to till but it probably saved you a lot of work over digging the roots. Bamboo roots are deceptive. All you have to do to stop the bamboo is to disengage the tiny roots from the larger rhizome. You can leave it all in the ground and it will not come back. It's a little easier to do than it might sound but not much. You'll certain be fine removing it all. When new bamboo creeps in under your 2-inch deep barrier, just lift the rhizome out of the soil and cut it off. It is a pain to keep after but you don't have to do it very often. Six inches deep might have stopped it. Eight inches deep probably would stop it, but any crack will let it in. As for rototilling, at least you've done your homework and know what you are getting into with rototilling. If you are going to install Celebration bermuda sod, you can do that any time including when it is dormant. I would spend a little time resettling the soil you have before putting the sod down.

You have a lot of what looks like horse herb in the yard - leafy leaves with a tiny yellow flower. That is easily killed with something like Weed-B-Gone.

Make sure you have good drainage. Old lawns often have horrible drainage for two reasons. One is they were never set up right to begin with. They should have a swale directing water away from the buildings. I believe the code says you need to drop 6 inches deeper than the level of the sill plate of the home at a distance of 10 feet from the building. The second reason is over the years people have top dressed with soil or sand a time or two. I drove by a home today that had a lawn level 5 inches higher than the adjacent lawn and the concrete curb. Assuming they started out with the proper 6 inch drop, they would be at only a 1 inch drop by now with a big mound in between. I want to take a picture when the cars are not parked in front.

Judging by your low pH, the former owner must have gone to Herculean efforts to lower the pH. My first guess is the TAMU test got it wrong. Second possibility is the former owner brought in soil from somewhere in the east. I don't really do soil test reading. I would; however, suggest getting a soil test from Logan Labs to confirm what TAMU gave you. TAMU has a history of getting bad results.

Dchall, do you mean high pH? Does Texas really have super-alkaline soil?

As for your soil test pretty much everything looks great from a not-needing-to-fertilize standpoint. A little bit of true winterizer (ie non-Phosphorus and very little or no nitrogen, which is the middle and first numbers respectively in the X-X-X labeling) would be perfect.

Bamboo (true bamboo that is), is insidious stuff. I have no doubt if it is actively growing in your neighbor's yard that the concrete you poured is only a slight deterrent to the bamboo (I've heard CRAZY stories of this stuff going underground for vast distances). Good news is it's relatively easy to mitigate IF you are observant. An extremely good technique you can use (but it will harm your neighbor's plant) is to not destroy the shoots as they come up in your yard, but instead excavate them a bit so they can be bent downwards and put a cut stem in a solution of RoundUp (a flower feeder from a cut rose is an easy and small holder). This will cause the plant to draw the RoundUp back to the roots and slow or kill the plant.

But as mentioned this stuff is invasive and the fastest growing plant for a reason. It's designed to take over....goodluck.

For Texas, 7.x is low pH. Mine is 8.5. The lowest I've seen in Texas is 8 - not that I see a lot of soil tests, but I try to keep current on the forums. Maybe along the coast it might get lower into the 7s.

Your soil test results are great but ignore any nitrogen results. You need both Nitrogen and Potassium. Look for some 1-0-1 ratio fertilizer and use it one time with what little time we have left this season.

I also recommend you use a sulfur coated slow release urea fertilizer to keep you high PH in check.