"We have been getting a lot of rain and the ground is saturated."

When the ground is saturated, the grass suffers. It could be suffering from iron chlorosis as a result of too much water. If so, it's temporary and will improve once the soil dries out somewhat.

If it goes on too long, you could get a fungus.

First pic ... center towards the bottom where it is really in focus, there already is "leaf spot".

Throwing nitrogen at leaf spot can do more harm sometimes. Better to apply a fungicide ASAP and then allow the lawn to dry out.

I haven't heard of Kentucky blue 31 - are you confusing Kenblue (a bluegrass) with Ken 31 - a fescue? I'm not seeing much of Ken 31 - it's a much wider bladed grass (in my experience) than what I'm seeing here. Also, what are you seeing that helps you identify the particular variety of bluegrass?

Define "winter grass".

1. Having my neighborhood go up in flames
2. Having my neighborhood washed away in a flood
3. Having my neighborhood be swallowed up in the next quake,

I'd move to California in a heartbeat just to be able to have roses like that!

And if you have time at some point - I'd love to hear some tips / lessons learned on the sod project you laid. Having tried to lay down just a few strips of sod this fall, I'm envious of the job you did for your brother.

Regarding the actual fungus - try posting on the organics forum - several users have success with ordinary corn meal applied at (I think) 10-20 lbs / 1000 sq. ft. Not sure of your location - they usually pick it up at feed stores pretty cheaply.

Best of luck,

Gags

#1 No fires if you stay away from the hill's where there are lots of old dead tree's
#2 Floods - Just stay away from those few areas
#3 Will yea Earth Quakes are defiantly scary! Can't do much about that. I would recommend a one story ground level house. As you can see I have a two story Cape Cod style home. I'm always worried we will get shook off our foundation. Earthquake insurance it is too expensive with huge deductibles!
Everything does grow good here though. Weather is nice most the year. Let’s see sod laying tips. When I lay sod I straighten the sod edges and corners as I go and make sure no grass gets stuck between the sod edges. This will avoid dead grass and brown and yellow stripes between the sod pieces that can make fungus and just makes for a bad start. I spray the ground with water and put down a little fertilizer as I lay the sod. I always use my square so I get nice square edges when I cut sod. Sometimes I don’t even till the ground. Sod will live on the patio if you water it. I do it all the time. Don’t over water your new lawn. Get out there and lift up the sod and see how wet it is. If you over water your new lawn you will get chlorosis and fungus like I have now from too much rain. If I need to replace a small spot I use a plate or bucket for a stencil and cut out the bad piece. Then I use the plate or bucket to cut a new piece of sod from extra sod that I keep on the patio or garden. If you are going to put in French drains or remove and replace tree's it’s better to do it first. I did it all backwards. I have a spot were an old tree and its roots were removed and it keeps sinking along with the trenches were I put the drains. If you put drains. It is good to attach your rain gutter down spouts to them. Also if you dig your ditch for your sprinklers try to keep the top soil separate from any clay soil that may be down lower and put the soil back in the whole the same way you took it out. The grass grows better on the top soil than the clay. That’s about all I can think of for now other than I like Blue Grass because it self fills. But. If you have shade you will need to over seed now and then were it thins out. I left a link below to other garden pics. I like to grow fruit trees as well. I get all my info for the roses and fruit tree's here on GardenWeb. Take care Dave

I also added iron to a different section of the lawn, but there wasn't much change, so at this point I'm going with fertilizer as my solution.