starter is transferred over. now let me ask a dumb question here-i use one little key? because the keyway is a lot larger than the key-where does the key belong position wise in there? Perhaps this will be obvious as i start putting the flywheel on? before i started this whole business the mower wouldnt start (in so much as there seemed to be no firing) i am hoping that this will correct with the new plug (the old one was looking somewhat black/burned near the part that fires(not sure what that is called sorry)
thanks

The key is a little soft metal key, I generally position the flywheel and slide the key in from the top. If you try to put the key in the crankshaft or inside the flywheel, it often slides out when you put the flywheel on. IF you try this, rock the flywheel to be sure the key didn't fall out.

Something to remember, that key only positions the flywheel and crankshaft until you can torque the crankshaft nut or bolt, which ever it has. The taper of the crank and inside of the flywheel is what holds the flywheel once properly torqued.

Walt Conner

so the purpose of the key(i got a pack of several) is just to position the flywheel on the shaft while you tighten it? it also serves some function of absorbing stress in the event of accident (running over a rock) to prevent serious damage, correct? it just seems that the key is much smaller than the key way. it is the same size as the old one so it must be right...maybe it will be clear when i do it but not sure if it supposed how it is positioned...i will look online for a picture of it....

thanks for all your help-i will let you know if it fires up!

"it also serves some function of absorbing stress in the event of accident (running over a rock) to prevent serious damage, correct?"

Well not on a 12.5 hp which is normally used on a belt driven application and the belts would absorb some of the shock.

The purpose of the soft key is not to absorb shock anyway, just to shear so that more damage will not be done as might be with a steel key as used by other brands of engines and on push mowers primarily.

If it were possible, you could remove the key, once the flywheel was tightened, with no consequences.

Walt Conner

mower running like a champ now...got it all together in a few minutes this morning This flywheel has an alum ring gear so i am hoping for better luck with it...luckily the starter that went with it was in good shape also...

thanks for all your help! mary

Glad to hear it's running.
It's appreciated when the posters get back and let us know how things turn out!

Mower still going strong-mowing down small trees and large blades of grass!

I'll bet you a dollar it'll stall out before YOU can finish MY yard with it!:-)
Some of my grass is 3" high-

time to break out the weed whacker then...

I guess that means I can't get you to mow my lawn for a buck!
Guess I'll have to do it myself:-)

BTW, 3" is short for this time of the year! Usually it's ankle high.

I have a question, what is the problem if the Flywheel will not turn, it would be great if someone would let me know.

Well, funny you should ask!
First: Check oil level in engine, by pulling out the dip-stick, wipe it clean, then do it again. See if there is about 2 inches of oil on the stick, or at least an inch. If no oil showing, stop there, and go to Sears and buy a new one--the engine is toast.
If oil shows, then check the battery to see if it is fully charged. If it is, then check the battery connections, for rust and corrosion. If there, new bolts might help. And, if the basttery is more than 2-3 years old, its most likely toast!
Before going to Sears, see if you can turn the engine crankshaft, by turning the bottom pulley. If not, then go!
If money is the object, run some jumper cables from your truck battery directly to the frame and the bolt on the starter. If nothing happens--good luck!

"I have a question, what is the problem if the Flywheel will not turn, it would be great if someone would let me know."

On what? Engine Brand, Model, type/spec would be usefull information.
Gravity feed gas tank or pump?
What happens if you remove the spark plug? Does gas come rushing out and ignite because you didn't ground the plug wire?

I replaced my ring gear and starter gear in my lawn mower. Same engine that was talked about above. Alumunium ring gear and nylon starter gear. Now when I try to start the mower the starter gear breaks in 2. Any thoughts??? Also I had the mower hooked up to a car battery for power if that makes a difference.

Remove the spark plug and drain the fuel out of the cylinder?

Does the flywheel turn by hand? If not, maybe the cylinder is locked w/ fuel as Bill eluded too. Or the belt is stuck to the engine pulley. Or worse. If you can turn it by hand, but not w/ the starter- maybe the flywheel key is sheared and the timing is kicking back and destroying the gear. Confident you tightened the flywheel tight enough? Is the drive worn? Did you use the B&S kit? Hopefully so. If not buy a new complete B&S starter drive. After-market drives are crap. If this doesn't get to the root of your issue, please start a new post- with engine #s and more detail of what you have found.

Well, the new starter drives break in half. The old, extremely worn out one works fine. So I guess I'll use the old one till she gives out. It was an aftermarket starter gear, not a BS. I'll use the good one nest time. Thank You

I have a similar issue - flywheel teeth and starter gear teeth chewed up. It's a 12.5 HP B&S engine (289700 series). I've been able to remove the flywheel nut, but cannot remove the flywheel itself. Does it just lift off? do I need to tap it with a hammer to loosen - or is there some hidden screw somewhere attaching it to the drive shaft?

Walt, Thanks for the advice. Will look into finding a B&S puller first (used, hopefully - ebay?), and then go to plan be as you've laid out here. I have a used flywheel on the way. thanks
Rob

By the time you pay S&H, you could probably buy the poller locally for less.
It's only $10 list!

See link

Here is a link that might be useful: Link

i have a similar problem my 11hp (252707) starter gears teeth have sheared and i dont know how to get the drive assembly off

Go to-
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more

and download the IPL for your engine.
You can see there's a little "Circlip" ring on the enf of the shaft-

Well that was a surprise, I didn't remember they were using that "better idea" retainer as far back as 25 series engines. IF it has that clip Bill mentioned, they can be a bear to get off. There may be a thread on how to do this. B&S sells special tools for removing and re-installing. Do check out the IPL as Bill said.

Walt Conner

mine has the little pin and i have used the idea with the nail as a punch and it wont budge

The end of the shaft must be supported solidly. A nut or socket to drive the pin to- on solid bench, curb, whatever and a regular punch will get it out. Or take the starter to your favorite shop. If you aren't planning on replacing the whole drive, inspect carefully for wear along the edge of the drive so that you know the gear will not hang up.

how hard do i have to hit it

Good and firm

i got it out and some time this week ill get a new one ill tell yall how it goes

i got the new starter drive assembly. it was for a c-clip starter,but i used my old roll pin and made it work very easily and it was cheap. thanks for the help

Okay, so I am having the same problem as the original post. My B&S model # is 289707 and the type is 0154-01. I have downloaded the IPL for this model range but cannot decide what part to get, the whole flywheel assembly or just the ring gear. Also I cannot figure out is I should get the plastic, steel, or aluminum ring gear. The sheared gears where both plastic.

Hear is the text from the IPL for just the ring gear:
726A 696537 GearâRing
(Aluminum)
(Services Plastic Ring
Gear Only)

Is it Aluminum or Plastic? I can't tell. And does it come with screws/bolts to replace the revits I will have to drill out so I can put it on?

Hear is the text from the IPL for the flywheel assembly:
23 693557 Flywheel
(Steel Ring Gear)
âââââââ Note âââââ
693556 Flywheel
(Steel Ring Gear)
Used on Type No(s).
0150, 1119, 1150,

23B 693555 Flywheel
Used on Type No(s).

If I was to go this route, do I purchase part number 693556 because the type # 0150 is close to mine (0154)?

Of course I would like the get just the ring gear because it is only 30 bucks, but if it is plastic should I get the flywheel assembly if it comes with a metal ring?

Sorry for all the questions, I just need some help here. Thanks.

696537 is the kit you need. You also need to pull the flywheel to install. I take an abrasive disc and cut through the old ring gear to zip thru the rivets and then drive them out- rather than drilling the rivets out. The new gear is attached w/ bolts. Good luck.

Used flywheels for those should be "a dime a dozen" at any lawn mower repair shop, especially smaller one man shops, and mower bone yards. Get one with an aluminum ring gear then use a plastic starter gear. I probably have 3 or 4 I would give you if you were here.

Walt Conner

Great info, thanks for the replies. I will probably check the local repair shops first, and buy the kit if that falls through. It did seem that that engine was a popular one. I will let you know how it goes.

That engine is a 28 series, one of the most used engines the last few years. Those other numbers don't mean a thing when it comes to the flywheel.

Walt Conner

Okay, so I searched the surrounding area for a used flywheel with no luck. I probably just did not call the right numbers. Anyway I did find the kit which came with the aluminum ring gear and the plastic starter gear from Hudson Hardware (great store) for 30 bucks.

The kit went on easily except knocking out the old pins, that took a little bit of work, but not bad.

The engine purrs like a kitten now and I am very happy.

There is only one problem, when the starter gear is fully engaged (at the top of the spiral hub and can go no futher) it is sitting about 1/4 inch lower than the ring gear on the flywheel. So the gears are not fully meshing. I believe this will cause premature wear of the starter gear. My solution is to route out the bolt holes in the starter bracket so I can raise the entire starter assembly. If anyone knows of another solution, or the original cause of the problem, please let me know.

I added a link to a picture of the problem. Let me know if you have trouble viewing it.

Thanks again for all the help.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:127584}}

I see nothing...

Sorry, that link is above is not working, try this.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:127585}}

No problem.

Walt Conner

Okay so i changed my nylon ring gear and put a brandy new starter in. The wood druff key was nice a tight and everything lined up. I started it up and it started a lot of blue smoke so I shut it down to get it out of the garage be dying of exhast fumes. I tried to start it outside and now it back fires thru the exhast and wont start. I pulled the plug it was wet with gas not fouled dried it off cranked the engine to clear the cylinder out. I put the plug back it and it wont start now. just backfires. its a B&S 14.5 hp
an old statesman ride on LM

Thanks

You may have sheared the flywheel key if the flywheel wasn't tight enough. Do you also have a condition where the fuel is seeping into the crankcase?

Hello Everyone;
my first time here. I have a problem and I don't really know how to post a new item here, so I will use this as it is relative.
I have just replace a ring gear on my 28N707 Briggs 15 hp engine. It had a plastic ring gear and a plastic starter drive gear.Teeth on ring gear has too many sheared off. The new ring gear is aluminum. The job was a success and the engine will now turn over. Problem, it won't start. It was running fine at middle of fall, when the teeth sheared off. I reinserted the woodruff key in the flywheel when I reinstalled it. When I try to start the engine, I do get some backfires, but no attempts to start. I think it must be timing. Where did I screw up? My first time at doing something like this. I would appreciate any help I can get.
Thanks....................Phil

Welcome Phil,

At the top left side of the screen when you sign onto the forum you should see a rectangle that says, "Post a Message". Just click on that.

Sounds to me like your flywheel key slipped out falling into alternator area and you didn't notice OR you did not properly torque the flywheel nut/bolt and sheared the soft key.

Walt Conner

Thanks Walt,
I thought about that last night after reading some more of postings here. I will check that out this morning. I thought that I did tighten the bolt enough, but maybe not. I don't have a torque wrench, but I might use the air wrench this time. I will let you know.
Thanks again.
Phil

Proper torque for the flywheel of your engine is 65 FT. lbs. Very hard to tell if you are getting it tight enough without a torque wrench and very easy to over tighten it with an air wrench.

Walt Conner

Where can i buy the repair kit?? Home depot?

"Where can i buy the repair kit??" Your friendly Briggs and Stratton dealer. Online too at various places.

Hello Walt,
Well I have the flywheel back on the mower. I had to get a square key from Ace Hardware and cut it in half for the flywheel. Put it all together and engine starts fine, but now another problem. This mower has been parked in my garage since, I think about the middle of October 09. It was running fine when the teeth stripped from the ring gear and it would not turn the engine over enough to start. Now it turns over fine with the new aluminum gear and starts instantly, but when I release the clutch or push the throttle to fast, the engine shuts down. Sounds like it does when you turn the key off, like flooding the engine. Do you have any clues to what my problem is now.
Sincerely,
Phil

briggs 14.5 hp 287700 I changed flywheel, starter gear oil. mower was running good the next day gas leaked into grank case mixed into oil. put new carburetor part #bs698620 cost 166 dollers changed oil. now it's hard starting back fires sometimes dies with more gas or less gas. fire comes popping out from exhaust and muffler system sounds bad. could the key on flywheel have been sheared. Can anyone please give me advice?????

Replaced plastic ringgear with aluminum, replaced starter gear, changed oil. started and ran good, next day replaced carburter because old one was leaking gas and mixing with oil, changed oil again now its hard to start will not stay running if you give it more gas will not rev up seem to stays at one speed or rpm, exhust system gets hot and starts smoking back fires orange fire from exhust Hard to start and stay running, plug is new. can anyone please advise