Can't comment on the Husqvarna specifically but most decks can be removed fairly easily but are a little more difficult to get back on. I have a JD and I have to re-level the deck each time I take it off (about a 30 minute job of crawling around on the floor which I don't like at all). It should become "just a tractor" once the deck and belt are removed. Maybe a Husqvarna owner will come along in a bit.

Get an 'additional' shed that is big enough.
I'm sure you will find enough stuff to fill up
the rest of it.

Get a bigger shed or a smaller deck. While the hook ups and disconnects are not difficult, the task will get old if you need to remove the deck everytime you put it away. The 54 inch deck is heavy.

Iam 70 years old three hip replacements, looking for the easest way to remove mower deck for sharping blades, I can just fall down, but getting back up is tough.

TO REMOVE THE MOWER DECK FROM A HUSQVARNA TRACTOR LAWN MOWER requires disengaging five supporting contact points between the mower deck and the tractor. The user manual explains these clearly.

Then there is also the need to disengage the mower clutch cable and spring from the mower deck's idler arm. The user manual (2012) describes this step based on an old version of the clutch cable (part number 532 43 51-10) that my model YTH21K46 does not have. The cable housing guide piece on my clutch cable is newer and different.

The cable housing guide snaps into a bracket (part number 532 19 72-50) screwed onto the mower deck. Once snapped into the bracket thusly the clutch cable is anchored in place and provides the correct angle for the cable/spring's action as it engages and releases the mower's idler arm.

Unsnapping the cable housing guide from the bracket involves a two-part step. Using pliers, squeeze the top plastic "prong" down on the part of the cable housing guide protruding on the right side from the bracket. With the prong down/compressed, pull the cable and housing guide to the left through the bracket. Once the guide is out, the cable wire can be separated from the bracket by lifting it through the narrow slot cut in the top of the bracket. With the cable now free of the bracket it's a piece of cake to detach the cable spring from the idler arm.

I have attached a picture of the cable housing guide and the bracket after popping the guide out. (The bracket has been unscrewed from the mower deck in this photo.)

To reinstall the cable in the bracket, slide the cable into the hole in the bracket and push the housing guide through until it snaps into place.

Just let it set out in the rain like 75% do. Beats back surgery! and a lot cheaper and easier on the back replacing LTs every few years.

Is it a wood shed? Why not just enlarge the doors? What you are considering.sounds like a real PITA...

I lay down on the cardboard creeper, with an extension light, and see whare all of the connections are. Then i remove the clips on the ends of them and pull them out. Any cables get their retainer clips removed, too. Then i look carefully to see if i have missed any. If not, i turn the front wheels to the left, and carefully slide the deck out on the concrete floor. (Note: I said the concrete floor. Don't try it in the dirt!) A long stick or pry bar can be used to lift the deck to get the pins out, and back in.
some of the Craftsman tractors had one clip that was hidden in the lower rear of the engine area, under the floor area of the frame. it was in a control cable to the deck. When you can see clear air under there, it is ready to come out. Getting it back in is more of a problem, but you will get 'er done!

doublebroadside, thanks for posting that explanation for removing the clutch cable housing. I spent a good hour and a half trying to figure out why the manual was showing me a retaining pin and collar that didn't exist on my mower deck. I'm glad I found your post before I spent any more time messing with it.

Fred, you need a Mo-jack.
I did just take the deck off this weekend for annual cleaning and lubing. Getting it back on was a huge PITA! My arms are scraped and bruised.

This post was edited by rager_w on Wed, Mar 20, 13 at 12:24