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| I would really like a wire schematic for this Power Kraft 42" hydrostatic riding mower because after I replaced the ignition switch it wouldn't shut off with the key. I would have to shut it off by turning the throttle all the way down then choking it. I've used it like this for some months now, but after my last mowing session today, I stopped to sharpen the blades, now it wont start (cranks ok) and it does not have spark. A schematic would also help me diagnose the no spark. Any suggestions?
thanks! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Many times the IPL has a basic wiring diagram. Did you verify the proper switch was installed? If you unhook the small wire that when grounded kills the coil and unhook that, you will at least know if the coil is good yet or not. Engine and unit model #s from under the seat would be good if you need further help. |
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| The engine model is 422707 and is an 'I/C' engine. What is IPL? The switch was a generic replacement switch, the factory replacement was way more money than what I have. thanks! |
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| "The engine model is 422707 and is an 'I/C' engine. What is IPL? The switch was a generic replacement switch, the factory replacement was way more money than what I have. thanks!" Sometimes "cheap" can get really expensive. Disconnect the "kill" wire where it connects to the coil at the back bottom. IF it has no spark now, coil is shot. Perhaps you bargain switch let some battery current to the kill wire. Walt Conner |
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| Needs your help i have a 18hp Briggs & Stratton every time i turn the ignition the engine only turns half way every time can someone please help me.. |
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| you might start by telling WHAT 18 hp twin as there are more than one and by the way, you should have started a new thread for your different problem. Walt Conner |
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| Thanks Walt2002, I have begun tearing down my mower to find the coil and wires, my time is limited so I will report on the 'kill wire' after I locate it and make a test. Funny thing is I also have the same problem Kenny_v is having when starting on occasion. It's like a voltage drop when one of the cylinders are on compression stroke. Even if my battery is fully charged it will almost stop cranking after a half a turn, but then once it gets past that it cranks just fine. But if the battery is low it won't make it past that compression stroke. If you verify what the voltage is at the starter lug while trying to start, you can determine if the problem is voltage loss between the starter and battery, or the starter it's self. Mind you should also check for voltage drop on the ground side as well, place your volt meter leads between the starter case and the battery Negative terminal, there should not be more than .5 volts while trying to crank. Same on the positive side. Remember to prob the battery terminal, not the wire end, so that the connection will be included in the test. If you have a digital volt meter you don't need to worry which lead goes on which end, it will just show a 'minus' sign if the meter lesds are reversed, the value is what is important. Also remember to hold the key in the 'Start' position long enough for the reading to stablize, maybe 3 or 4 seconds. |
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| This is a common complaint with this engine, I have a list of possible causes IF you would like them. Address below, put in proper format. Walt Conner |
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