You say you removed the kill switch, did you disconnect the kill wire AT the coil? Did you put the new coil on right? Kill Wire to the back/bottom?

There can't be only something very simple keeping it from having fire. to check spark, remove spark plug, stick philips screw driver in plug wire boot, grasp shank of screw driver in palm of hand and place a finger on a bright, bare spot on the engine, turn flywheel brisquely by hand past magnet.

Walt Conner

Yes I did disconnect the kill wire at the coil. The new coil is on correctly, it is labeled as to which side should point up. Reattached the kill wire to the coil and to the back/bottom.

I tried the screw driver thing the other day and expected to get a jolt but didn't.

Coil AND flywheel are the only things involved in spark with a CDI. Are the coil mounting posts bright? IF so, bad coil or bad flywheel. Flywheel key has nothing to do with WHETHER there is spark.

Note, with CDI the magnet must pass the coil laminates at approx. 800 rpm.

Walt Conner

I got tired of messing with it trying to get spark, put it all back together, and it started right up. I have no clue what was keeping it from running, but thank you for your help.

Hi snapper6xs. Are you still running? I have a 1991 RER with an 11 hp Briggs Intek, also intermittent no-spark situation. I replaced the magneto (it always seemed to die just when it got hot) rebuilt the carb, pulled the head and cleaned carbon off cylinder and valves, and replaced the safety switch interlock thingy. I seemed good for two cuttings and POW, it dies on me yesterday. I pulled the red wire off the post with the magneto kill wire and nothing. Then I pulled the magneto kill wire and it fired right off. Can that terminal block that it connects to expand and cause a ground situation when the block is hot? If so, what's the fix?

i'm thinking you got a short in the wire somewhere.is what it sound or a bare spot on the wireing.

"Can that terminal block that it connects to expand and cause a ground situation when the block is hot? "

Doubt that is the problem, sometimes the terminal gets gas/oil/crape on it and shorts but don't think it would act like that. Check the kill wire between the terminal and the coil, may have a place rubbed in the insulation where the wire goes under the cooling shroud.

Walt Conner

Thru this forum I discovered my Snapper SR 120 that would not start had a bad kill switch. If I disconnect it the mower will run. Can't shut it off even with full choke. Have to get off and re-attach the kill switch. Is the kill switch something that can be easily replaced ? I thought about just running a wire out of the engine shroud, but I figure it gets so hot in there that the insulation would melt off an ordinary wire ??