If you are referring to the aluminum disk, there is a way to adjust the setting.
Jack rear of the machine up and support it well. Preferrably automotive jack stands.
With an extension light, peer back thru the underside, above the battery box area, with the seat above your head, and then turn the engine crank-shaft and plate, until the adapter can be seen where the two Allen screws are. Using an allen wrench, the long type, loosen the 2 allen screws in the side of the adapter, and tap on the plate until it all moves downwards to the correct position. Then retighten the allen acrews, and you will be alright.
You ask:What is the correct position? The correct position is this: 3 7/8 inches, from the flat underside of the engine sump casting, to the top flat area of the drive plate!
now, i am quite sure, when you look under there and see how hard it is to do what i have just told you--you will realize that four bolts, several wire connections, a fuel hose , and whatever else, is-will be a heck of alot easier!

So my best bet is to remove the engine so I can use a puller to bring the plate down? I know that is probably easier but I just put the engine on today and got it running so it is very aggravating to have to take it all off again, especially since it is all painted up. I know its a mower but since I went through all the hours to clean, prep, and paint I want to try to stay away from scratching it all up. I brought it back from the dead, been sitting in a field 4 years with weeds growed all over it and without an engine. It was nice to hear it run for the first time today.

You should not need a puller. Just loosen the set screws and it will slide down the shaft. If you need a puller, something is wrong. I just stand them on end. That way, you can get to everything easily. It shouldn't be too hard to adjust. The spec is a good starting point, but I usually have to fudge a little to compensate for worn parts. I usually end up being a little low. Just don't get it too low or the clutch will not disengage.

"You should not need a puller. Just loosen the set screws and it will slide down the shaft. If you need a puller, something is wrong."

Not necessarily and Snapper even makes a special puller for them and I made one myself, but in his case, I think he just put it on so should move easily.

"Just don't get it too low or the clutch will not disengage"

And will not be able to get the belt off/on.

Walt Conner

OK, I got up this morning and adjusted the drive disk to specs. At first it would pull in first a little. So I moved it down some more, now it will pull in 1st and 2nd strong and a little in 3rd and none in 4th or 5th. If I move it down anymore the drive disk will be hitting the lift yoke. The lift yoke dosent look to be that worn, neither does the rubber on the driven disk. There is alot of slack in the rubber on the driven disk though, I can lift it up to touch the drive disk in 5th. I think the liner is shot from all the years outside not covered up without an engine. Any ideas? I need to get to mowing, lol.

"There is alot of slack in the rubber on the driven disk though, I can lift it up to touch the drive disk in 5th. I think the liner is shot"

I expect the liner IS shot.

Walt Conner

How much rubber will a new disk have on it? Mine has about a 1/4 of an inch left.

Change the disk, it should have about twice that. Also you may want to look over the yoke and bushings closely for wear. I had the same problem with it not wanting to pull in 3rd gear. The yoke an bushings were worn badly. I replaced all the shifter parts that bolt to the back and now it will pop wheelies. LOL

I replaced the drive disk today. I bought one from my local mower shop, it came with the liner already with it. All my problems are solved now for the most part. Now I'm just trying to get everything loosened up. If I dont let off of the clutch pedal fast it will not engage all the way. I checked the springs and moved them up a notch so it will have more tension to pull up the yoke. Are my springs just wore out? I checked the clutch/brake cable it is not binding. I lubricated all the pivot points that I know of to make everything move more freely.

Must be something binding along the line. Is the cable frayed and catching on where it passes thru the frame or thru the frame tube. IF you don't find anything binding, check the spring for tension and even add another spring if necessary.

Walt Conner

Cable looks fine going in at the front and back of tube. Springs all look fine, but they may be weak, I might get some new ones or just add an extra one. Thanks for all the help.

Took off the original spring today, replaced with a thicker shorter spring. All clutch woes are finally over! Thanks for yalls help.