A working 10323 is worth more than $80 - you can get more than that for the engine. You need about 1" of free play in the drive bail. If you have more than that, the cable housing needs to be adjusted. Does yours have a clamp that holds the cable housing near the top of the handle? If so, loosen the clamp and move the housing up or down to adjust. If the wheels turn without the bail while the rear end is held off the ground, it's too tight, so move the housing the other way.

The speed of a 10323 is mediocre at best. Despite cable and vane manipulation, it will only go so fast. This is its Achilles' Heel.

Sounds like I got an ok deal then.

Mine does have the clamp that holds the cable. I will adjust it at the clamp.

Are there any mods that I should do?
Does this mower have a gas filter?
Can I still get OEM parts for this?
Thanks

I always add a gas filter...just cut the line from the tank and insert a filter. You may want to consider "rejetting." They run like a charm after this modification. Yes OEM parts are around in abundance. The coils are prone to failure, but you can now get aftermarket ones on ebay for much less than OEM.

Answer to the first - Another soul lost to the cult. Here's one to get you started. Special order some Deda handlebar tape in the spring green color, use it to wrap the handle AND deadman lever up into the run position. Get a little "Project Box" from Radio Shack and mount a single pole, single throw rocker switch into it. Mount the box on the handle's lower crossmember where the bag would hang. Run a pair of 14 gauge stranded wires through the hollow handlebar down to the deck with one going to the engine's cutoff switch and the other to an engine ground. Splice into the deadman ground wire making sure you solder the connection and insulate it with shrink tubing. Use a piece of split loom to dress up the wires jumping between the handle and the engine. Looks factory and saves wear on the starter cord. Keep in mind the switch needs to be in the "off" position for the engine to run, "on" will ground out the coil and stop the motor, but not in the allowed 3 seconds so you can enjoy the spin down.
Answer to the 2nd - A screen in the tank, a screen over the main jet in the carb bowl. Cut the 1/4" fuel line and add one, while you're at it add a fuel cut-off valve. The 90 degree ones fit best.
Answer to the 3rd - Yes, even the decals.

Thanks for all the imput. Very interesting advise.

So what do I need to do to get it rejetted?
What is the part I need, and can I do this?
What do you guy use for pre-mix?
And what ratio do you mix your gas/oil?

There is a thread in another forum that talks about Lawnboy installing 'throttle disks' for there snowblower carburetors on the Duraforce lawnmower carburetors. I ordered the part number(98-7047) for the correct 'throttle disk' ,installed it in the carbureror on my LB 10550 and it runs excellent now.

Lawn-Boy oil at 32:1 (8 oz can to 2 gal) is certainly a safe bet. A synthetic blend 50:1 oil is also okay. I always add 1 oz/gal of Marvel Mystery Oil to any 2-cycle mix in addition to the regular oil. You have a lot to learn about operating a LB 2-cycle, too much to type here. I suggest searching this board for 'rejetting' and 'surging'. Yours may be okay - you have to use it some and see how it does. If it cuts grass without the engine speed wildly flucuating, it's okay. None of them ever ran on a 'straight line' like a 4-cycle, and some owners think this is a problem, so they throw more fuel at it. I had two Duraforce engines and never tampered with either one - they both worked great.
There is a governor adjustment at the base of the air vane, a white disc. It has 'click' increments for fine-adjusting engine speed. Some 10323s were set rather low. Always be careful to take the throttle lever completely off 'choke' after starting. I've seen people in their yards trying to mow with the choke on and the mower sputtering and blowing clouds of smoke. 'Damn no-count junk'. The air filter element must be cleaned and re-oiled about twice a season. Use special filter oil or 30W engine oil. The air filter is extremely critical to engine life as the air/fuel mix is drawn directly into the crankcase. Since the crankcase also is pressurized every cycle, dirt is usually forced out of the engine through the crank seals. Lawn-Boy used to call this 'self-cleaning' and it's true. Lawn-Boy oil has a heavy solvent package to make sure no hard deposits form inside the engine. This is why I added MMO when not using LB oil. Most 2-cycle oils now contain a fuel stabilizer so don't ad Sta-Bil to it.

Thanks for all the advice from you Lawnboy guru's! I cleaned the air filter, and adjusted the clutch cable and its working great. Not sure why the choke was ever added to the throttle lever on these. I have owned many brands and I really like these Lawnboys.

so, is lawnboy still a great mower since Toro took over as the owner?