Return to the Lawn Mowers Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
3.5 Briggs Stratton engine

Posted by brenton_2008 (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 23, 10 at 3:59

Hi all. Have a push mower that will not start "period". I have removed both the gas tank can carb and redid the two, and got lots of spark from the plug. When I try to prime the carb no gas is injected when I look in the carb where the filter is attached. I was told that either the valves were shot or one of the rings on the piston where broken. When my friend and me took a compression test, (thumb on the spark plug hole" he said when I pulled on the cord that he was getting both suction then it would push air back, so he said that is why it will not suck gas to fire it up. Its to weak. Just wondering why when I tried to prime it, that nothing would spray into the carb. I pulled the engine down and piston rings and all looked good, and both valves were seating, and the seats looked ok. Not sure what to do now. Any suggestions, or opinions welcome. Brent@CanBC


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: 3.5 Briggs Stratton engine

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Wed, Jun 23, 10 at 5:45

Almost certainly, you need a new diaphragm for the carb. Try this project.

3.75 Briggs carb rebuild

This is an easy DIY job to replace the diaphragm of the carburetor. A damaged diaphragm will cause engine surging, hard starting, and erratic high speed operation. You may also notice that the primer bulb isnt working properly.

This is an overview of the carburetor and these types of carb-over-tank are typical of small Briggs engines. Note the two governor springs. The carb/tank assembly is held in place by a " bolt to the left of the carb and a 3/8" bolt on the engine head to the right. Remove both bolts and pull the tank straight out with a rocking motion. If possible, the carb/tank assembly should be blown off with compressed air and all loose dirt removed. Use the proper safety equipment, especially safety glasses, before using any compressed air in any of the steps below.

In the highlighted area you will see the governor linkage still in the throttle plate of the carburetor. You will have to gently separate the carb/tank assembly from the linkage. It is a Z type linkage. It is not necessary to remove the springs or the other end of the linkage, from the governor.

Note that on the rear of the carburetor is found a white plastic ring and O ring. Sometimes these remain on the tube of the engine housing. If so, place them back into the carburetor body, as shown, before reinstalling the carb/tank to the engine.

Note the raised area of the diaphragm. This is caused by age, but more often, by ethanol fuels, which damage the diaphragms. A damaged diaphragm will cause engine surging, hard starting, and erratic high speed operation. You may also notice that the primer bulb isnt working properly.

Shown here are the dip tube, which brings up gas from the tank, in the bottom left corner. Just behind that and partially obscured, is the orifice that compressed air can be used to clear the dip tube of debris. It also leads to the primer bulb, so any air must be low pressure and the primer bulb must be held in the depressed position to prevent it from blowing out. In the center top, youll notice the jet, surrounded by a wire mesh filter. In the bottom right is a spring. Be careful to not lose the spring or forget to install it during reassembly.

Remove the old gasket and diaphragm combo from the carb body. Install a new gasket/diaphragm on the smooth surface of the tank. I always blow out the tank with compressed air to remove dirt and any water. Be aware that there may also be old gas in the tank. I always empty the tank and let it sit in the sun until all the gasoline evaporates before applying compressed air. Align the carb and lower it down on top of the gasket, trying to keep the five screw holes in the gaskets aligned. Insert the screws and partially tighten them and install all five screws. Tighten each screw until it gently bottoms out. Then turn each screw another quarter turn. It is not necessary to use more than a few inch pounds of torque on these screws. Reinstall in reverse order. When installing, be sure to engage the breather tube with the rubber piece on the carburetor.


 o
RE: 3.5 Briggs Stratton engine

Might i suggest sending your friend home, as his advice will only serve to get you into more trouble! Heed the instructions as put forth by the educated folk in this column, as they know how to fix those engines and carbs, etc! By: Rusty Jones


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Lawn Mowers Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here