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kjhoffman_gw

Honda GCV 160 Wont Start

kjhoffman
16 years ago

I have a honda gcv 160 engine. It was running fine and just stopped while in use. I had put gas in a few minutes earlier, and thought bad gas may be the problem, but after draining and refilling, I cant get it to start. Checked engine oil, it may have been a bit low, so I topped it off. Tilted engine as I heard it may have a low oil pressure sensor that would reset after oil added (tilting may eliminate air).

I took plug out, cleaned it, replaced it still wont start. The engine has only been used about 3 hours. When I pull starter cord it pulls easily, and on first pull I hear a slight "backfire" (very slight).

Aside from taking to engine repair shop, any suggestions ?

Comments (80)

  • tomplum
    13 years ago

    Bobby- my guess is the throttle shaft is stuck in the carb bore. Some well placed gumout and some wiggling should free it up.

  • largecap2022_yahoo_com
    13 years ago

    I owned 2 craftsman mowers with Honda engines. I came to the conclusion that these Honda engines are JUNK - both had the same starting issues as everyone here.

  • wickegl_comcast_net
    12 years ago

    Engine win't start when pulled. Doesn't seem to be getting any fuel. Starts with starting fluid and remains running until I shut it off. Same problem with warm engine - doesn't seem to be getting fuel and won't start when pulled.

  • gordoMV
    12 years ago

    It is a Honda GVC190. This Spring when I started it, it only runs for 5-10 seconds and then dies. If I try to restart it sputters and dies. I have read every post I can find and (jphilli6 on Fri, Dec 3, 10 at 19:08) above, sounds spot on, but no solution was ever posted??? Except I have also adjusted the vales and installed a new carburetor. It still does the same thing. Help, my lawn is out of control!

  • davefroo
    12 years ago

    On these engines, you have to have 3 things to run: Spark (at the right time) fuel and compression. These engines are about the worst thing Honda ever made. They work fine, but...Bend the valve cover? Damaged camshaft. There is no "camshaft alignment".

  • sankey35_gmail_com
    12 years ago

    I have been shooting starter fluid for first start each time I use the mower. Runs fine after that.Choke seams to operate fine. Any thoughts?

  • roadiez
    12 years ago

    I was having alot of the same problems on here...Would only run if I sprayed starting fluid,gas or something into the carb.
    Well turns out I could keep it running if I put pressuere on the throttle spring/or the governing spring.(on the left side of motor,running from carb. to throttle lever).
    All I did then was there is 2 holes for the throtle return spring. I moved it to the farthest back hole...1/4 inch made a whole lot of difference. If need be email me I can take some camera pics & email what I did.

  • tooltime79
    12 years ago

    This is why I like my mowers with Tecumseh engines. Never a problem ever...and start on the first pull.

  • jemartin007
    12 years ago

    I also have the above referenced lawnmower, obtained from Sears more than five years ago. It has worked very well, although not worked strenuously.

    However, today it would not start for the first time attempted this year. 80 Fahr outside.
    Last fall, as usual, I ran it out of gas and replaced the oil. Stored outside in a plastic Suncast bin under tarp.
    Used a jumper cable to test ignition and wife reported NO SPARK! When my neighbor, who is an experienced power boat engine rebuilder at Bass River, MA, returned from his weekend camping trip, we examined it. R&R of spark plug gave no joy. Ditto for removing the air filter. His in-line spark plug tester showed that ignition system was fine, not as my primitive effort with my wife suggested.

    The engine needs only four things to run: fuel, spark, compression, and timing. Fuel is the most obvious problem. So spraying cold start fluid into the air cleaner opening caused the machine to run for a few seconds several times. Ergo, fuel starvation, and I get to uninstall and rebuild the carb, or replace it. Possibly replacing the fuel hoses, and/or installing an in-line fuel filter.

    Parts for many Honda GCV 160 lawnmowers, including core engine components, are still available at

    Plano Power Equipment http://planopower.com/store/honda/gcv 16a.shtml

    at fairly inexpensive prices.

    Hope this can help other befuddled fumblers like me,

    Jack E. Martinelli Age 65 Ph.D. MIT Massachusetts
    END

  • tooltime79
    12 years ago

    Doc, great post but you shoulda got a Tecumseh. All MIT grads were hip to that fact I thunk. Cheers :D

  • ewalk
    12 years ago

    Simple carb cleaning required . Even though you drained out the fuel enough residual fuel remains to gum up your small engine fuel circuits. A small guage tag wire along with carb cleaner and compressed air will clean out all the needle and seat and orifices within the carb . I usually also use 2 ounces of carb cleaner within fresh fuel to assist with speeding up the final residual varnish removal within the carb .

  • fredct
    12 years ago

    Honda 160 1 year old. Stopped while running. Won't restart.
    Changed oil, fuel, spark plug, cleaned carburetor and valves (through engine block openings) and ignition coil. Spark present. No start under any conditions including with starter fluid.
    Timing seems to be the problem but how to fix? Am I supposed to remove the flimsy OHC stamped cover? Then what?
    This mower is one step away from curb. Please help.

  • golf_par5_gmail_com
    12 years ago

    I have a Murray with the same Honda engine and it start every time with gas in the carb/air filter and keep running after. If I stop just a few minutes it will start again but stop for an hour or more and I have to put some gas in again. I little bit of a pain... any ideas to fix that?

    Thanks!

  • 1saxman
    12 years ago

    Andre; the Honda automatic choke has been a problem on the GCV160. You might check with your local mower service shop to see if there is a recall on the choke. There has been some discussion of it here too, so you might search for that. Even when working as-designed, this choke tends to be troublesome.

  • Franknoe
    12 years ago

    I hope someone can give me some advice on how to fix my HONDA gvc 160. First off its a karcher power washer with less than 10 hrs. on it, i bought it used but its like brand new,the guy i bought it from said it ran good until he put it away for the winter, when he got it out in the spring and started it up he could not get any throutle out of it without it spittin backfireing, I bought it for a song and dance figuring it was either bad gas or plug so i drained the tank and flushed it put a new plug in and took the carb off and cleaned it too with carb cleaner and compressed air put everything back together with new gas maid sure there was no clogs in the fule line and gas flowed ok, and it still ran the same as before (rich) I talked to a honda small engine michanic and he told me to get a new carb and that would fix it, (WRONG) now with the new carb it runs fine as long as the choke is on full. My question is this sence it sounds like its not geeting enought gas is it feasable to drill out the main jet or will that just add to my problem. I am not stupid when it comes to the internal combustion engine as i have been working on cars my whole life but this has got me stumped, I can't believe its timming as with that I don't think it would run but i could be wrong and the same with valves sticking, as all that i have mention i found on other sites. Can anyone out there shed some light on my problem. Frank

  • tomplum
    12 years ago

    Well Frank, pertaining to the carb- were you able to remove both pieces in the stem and clean them once you had the bowl off? Also, if you have a carb gasket flipped- it won't run well either. Make sure the little hole in in the right place. Also, weaker valve springs on this engine combined with fuel deposits from sitting will cause enough sticking to create issues as well. Once you get it up and running , use short bursts of carb spray to help this along.

  • Franknoe
    12 years ago

    Thank you for the come back tomplum, yes i did clean both pices in the stem, the carb. was clean as a whisle no deposits in the bowl or anywear, but that was on the old carb., I bought a new carb with new gasgets and i am sure there on the right way as there is no wrong way i can see because the bolt holes and butterfly hole on carb. will not line up if there on the wrong way. By the way the engine does run, but it acts like its starving for gas but with no ajustment there is little i can do with the carb.

  • tomplum
    12 years ago

    I'm afraid that you are not correct on the gasket theory. Watch the placement of the small hole as it mates w/ the bakelite spacer especially. Obviously, the gaskets should be new or in good shape.

  • Franknoe
    12 years ago

    Ok tomplum if your faceing the engine wear the carb. mates to the spacer plate wear is the small hole located on the left or on the right? Or if you have the gasget on the carb mateing surface that goes towards the spacer wear is the small hole located, (this is when you are holding the carb in your hand) Thanks

  • tomplum
    12 years ago

    It will make sense when you compare the pieces. Note the impressions on the old gasket. You will see that the porting on the carb flange and the small hole are meant to mate inna certain way. If this is not correct, it will surge badly. Pay attention to this detail on all the gaskets. The heat shield/ spacer/ gaskets must all be right. To make my life easier, I use a touch of HiTack to hold the gaskets in place- staying away from the passage holes. below is a link for a LB with a GCV. It looks right and you can see the passages, but I don't have one apart in front of me to confirm that.

    Here is a link that might be useful: LB 10655

  • Franknoe
    12 years ago

    I did the comparison on the old gasget, and i put the new gasget on accordingly but i am beginning to wonder if were on the same page as the link you put on your last responce goes to toro, I have a HONDA engine, no # i have will work there even the LB10655 for your link the only model # i have is for the power washer its self.I do have an engine # and carb.# The only gasget i chg. is the one in question the others are good. Do you know of any wear on the web I can get an exploded view of this? Thanks

  • tomplum
    12 years ago

    Sure.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Here ya go

  • Franknoe
    12 years ago

    Well my problem is solved, after I found a scamatic that showed that someone had it apart before me and had everything in the wrong place and none of the holes lined up, seemed strange as the bolts snaped loose like they were tighten from the factory, thats what thru me off, I was trying to put everything back the way it came off. Without the drawing I did not know any better. Once I put it back together from the drawing it runs like a top. Thanks tomplum for all your help and by the way I did find your link afterall, but it took the wife to do it as i am not to savy on the computer. Thanks again

  • Bob468
    11 years ago

    My HRR216 160cc was left at a rental property (they were supposed to mow the lawn). I have it back now, not running. The carb is so full of gunk that I will replace it. I pulled the valve cover and found the intake valve stuck open. I can pry it shut and tap it open, but it is really tight. Is there any chance that I will be able to free it up without cracking open the block? Also, can I verify the valve timing while the cover is off?

  • tomplum
    11 years ago

    One of two ways should free the valve if it is simply varnished. Usually if you can work in carb spray on both sides it will unstick. Follow up w/ a thin lube. If not, let that all clear away and you can use a heat gun to melt away the varnish. I shouldn't have to say that if one's source of heat is a torch and you have all this combustible liquid things could get a burning real fast if there is a puddle of carb spray inside. If the engine was filled w/ water, then it may need to come apart.

  • Bob468
    11 years ago

    I have had great success today. I worked the valve back and forth while spraying carb cleaner. I still had to use a needle nose pliers, and it wouldn't rotate. Then I set it with the intake straight up at TDC and filled the combustion chamber with PERMATEX SOLVO-RUST SUPER PENETRATING OIL. It was over 20 yrs old, maybe 40 yrs (found it in the basement). Good stuff, I was ablle to work the valve by hand and rotate it freely within a minute. After about 20 minutes I drained it thru the exhaust valve and had a bunch of rust flakes in the drip pan. Now I have the chamber full of 2 stroke oil to clear out the last of the rust. I think that I'm ready to order the new carb !!!! Thanks for the advice.

  • balki79
    11 years ago

    Hi, I have a Poulan mower model no. 96132002000, which has either the GVC160 or the GVC190 according to the manual. Last year it would run, then die. So I took it in, and the guy cleaned the carb, and it worked, although I only needed to use it once before winter. I drained the fuel and ran it dry. In spring, I put fresh gas in it, it ran, then died again. So I took the carb bowl off, was very clean, I cleaned it anyway. Ran for 10 seconds and died. After so online searching, EVERYONE says change the plug. Brand new plug, starts then dies. Double check the gap, all good, but it just wont start! Any ideas, goind crazy, and my lawn is getting really embarassing! Thanks.

  • JerryBlaine1963
    9 years ago

    My Honda mower had these same issues. When I sprayed gas into the carb, it would start briefly. I blew out the fuel line leading into the carb with compressed air, reconnected the line and it fired up on the first pull.

    Thanks for the advice!

  • Jimmyt777
    9 years ago

    I have 3 year old Honda self-propelled with the gcv- 160 that has been working well with the exception of :now the rear drive sounds like it is slipping on the left side(looking from behind). But the real issue now is, after starting engine & engine running fine, when i engage the blades it wants to bog down and die when cutting even medium tall grass.This has been a teriffic mower. It has NEVER done this previously. Any suggestions ?? Please help ! Thanks Jim

  • gjr66
    9 years ago

    I had the same problem from the first time I unpacked my new honda mower. I have always bought Honda and have influenced many people to also buy Honda. I always keep two honda mowers . One for me and one for my wife because they are so easy to start. My son got married so I gave him my Honda that has always started on the first pull.I went to Home Depot and bought me a new one. I did not have to use it till the summer time so that is when I opened the carton and added the oil. The mower did not start after many pulls.Should have taken it back right then but did not. I used starter fluid and it cranked up. This is what I did for a whole season. Today I decided to look into the problem more closely.I discovered that the butterfly was wide open with engine cold and would not close at all when lever was pulled back at the handle for starting.I remember squirting started fluid in carb and seeing that the butterfly was always wide open. I decided to take the carburator off and examine it. I noticed when I started to pull the carb. off after removing the two screws that hold it that the butterfly had closed. So I put it all back together and the butterfly stayed in the closed position. For the first time in over a year the mower cranked on the very first pull. I ran the mower awhile to heat it up to see if it would crank on fist pull as well with hot engine. Yes it did. For some reason that butterfly in carb. was hung in the open position. Now it seems to be okay. If not I will repost if the problem comes back. So if your honda engine is hard to start check while the engine is cold to see if butterfly in carberator is closed.If it is wide open it is stuck and you need to get it to close when engine is cold and as engine heats up butterfly will open. Hope this helps someone.

  • johntenterprise
    8 years ago

    Bought my first Honda GCV160 four years ago. Having starting problems this season. Fresh gas with stabilizer, new plug, cap of upper cylinder lube in the gas to help clean everything up. Ran OK a couple of times, then more starting issues. Pulling the cord feels like there is little to no back-pressure. Thought I might have an open valve so I pulled the valve cover tonight. Intake was so tight a feeler gauge would not go in. The exhaust was so loose a screwdriver tip was a good fit. My question is this: If I make the tappet adjustments with the cam in the neutral position, the intake opens and closes OK, but there is an additional spring loaded, half round cam operating down on the center of the wheel that causes the exhaust to "bump" open slightly when it goes by. Then the cam comes around and opens the exhaust valve. So now, I am wondering if the exhaust adjustment should be made when that small cam is in place to keep the valve from making that small motion. I really hate to trial and error this thing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.


  • Charles Lane
    8 years ago

    Honda Gvc160. For what its worth: My mower wouldnt start or run. Raw fuel at intake still no start. spark plug looked fine, but picked up a new one and immedistely varooom varoom.

  • iwearasuit
    8 years ago

    I had a problem with my mower today - it was fine in the morning - i took an hour and a half off then when i tried to restart it, i got nothing. I've had the mower 7+ years so I ran to Home Depot and swapped out the spark plug (lubricating the threads before I inserted it) and gave it a new air filter. Still nothing. I let it sit for a bit and retried it and got a popping noise the moment I first tried to pull the cord. I ran back to Home Depot and bought a carb cleaner spray. Can anyone tell me my next steps? A little detail would be appreciated since I never disassembled a mower before but I see where the fuel line is and the carb bowl.

  • HU-576564
    8 years ago

    Just had the same problems as everybody else. Popping thru the carb. Popped off the tin valve cover and found that the intake valve was stuck open. Carb cleanered it and worked it in and out with a screwdriver till it freed up. Problem solved after sealing the valve cover back on with silicon sealant.

  • John C
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    gjr66, I purchased my Toro SR4 with the Honda GSV160 engine three or four years ago and, from around the fourth use, experienced this cold no-start problem. Should have returned it to the dealer for service, but that is just a pain, so I started using a squirt of starter for cold starts. Always ran perfectly once started and until I stopped it for more than half an hour. I've read every message in this thread until yours. Tried the "loosen the gas cap" trick, no joy.

    But, when I read your post, I could not resist the temptation to check that butterfly on my mower. It was open. I took a small screwdriver and just tapped it, and it sprang shut. Tried to start, no joy. Used some starter fluid, and it ran until the starter fluid was used up, then died. Now, I'm thinking to myself that I have messed up my mower (at least it ran previously once started). Long story short, I had spent quite a long time cutting grass and picking up maple tree seeds (we have tons of them) yesterday, and, suddenly, it crossed my mind to check for fuel in the tank, LOL. There was none.

    I put some fuel in the tank and let the mower sit for an hour to test your solution. Low and behold, she started on the first pull. I do believe your advice has solved my years-old annoyance with this engine. Although I appreciate reading all the helpful suggestions about this problem that I find on line, I just could not accept that my mower needed most of the attention suggested. It runs so flawlessly once started, and once warm, starts right up on the first pull. I maintain it properly, and have never struck any obstructions while operating it.

    I just wanted to thank you for your most helpful suggestion and would advise others to make this simple check before delving into other, more involved attempts to correct the problem.

    Best wishes, Caruso

  • John C
    7 years ago

    I probably should not be repeating myself, but I am so ecstatic that gjr66's suggestion allowed me to sort out this problem. All this time has passed, and I'm thinking that I must have bought a lemon or that Honda quality, just as I "signed on" had gone to @#$%.


    My mower always ran fine once started, and I love everything else about it, the ease of adjusting the handle, the quick conversion from mulching to side discharge, to bagging, everything. The only thing this mower does not do as well as my old LawnBoy (bless her expired heart) is vacuum. The LawnBoy was like a vacuum. You could run across clippings or leaves on the street or driveway and nothing escaped, nothing was left behind. With the Toro, you could criss-cross these areas 100 times and still not get it all. I've overcome this problem by using my blower in tandem with the mower. I don't let stray clippings get away. Sometimes, I will park the mower against a curb and direct clippings into it with the blower. Works like a charm.

    Sorry to get off topic, but I'm in mower heaven right now. I cannot believe how simple that solution was, nor can I believe I lived with the aggravation so long.

    Happy mowing all.


    Caruso

  • jwhjr1998
    7 years ago

    I have Honda gcv160 and last week it has been running fine and then all of a sudden it stopped and would not start again. I goggle this today and got some good info so thanks to everyone that commented. after reading through 4-5 comments I tried the carb cleaner. Took off the air filter and did a few shots in there but I also used the carb cleaner and sprayed the spring levers on the side of the motor. After doing that it started up just fine. These spring loaded

    levers are on the exterior and have something to do with the auto choke. I think they were just dirty and not letting the auto choke work the way it is designed too.


    i hope this helps someone else. Thanks


  • macxx
    7 years ago

    Honda GCV 160 on pressure washer. Was running OK. Shut it off to move some items, would not restart.

    Traced to no spark. Disconnected kill switch, no spark. Online research said to replace coil. Did, with aftermarket coil. No spark. Replaced with genuine Honda coil. Still no spark.

    All 3 coils test acceptable ohms between kill tab and plug wire, 6, 8 & 14 ohms.

    Flywheel magnet is not loose, has strong magnetism. Flywheel key is OK.

    On all 3, have about 2.5 ohms kill tab to coil frame. Are they shorting out internally? Wouldn't think there should be continuity there. For comparison, checked both coils on twin Briggs engine, they tested at/less than 0.5 ohms between kill tab and coil frame.


  • User
    7 years ago

    Hello. I purchased a refurbished SIMPSON Pressure Washer with a Honda GVC 190 Engine from Ollie's Discount Store. When starting the cord it would snap back out of my hand ocassionally. Ran good though when started until today. It stopped running for unknown reason. Now when starting the cord does not snap back and very easy to pull, however it will not start. It gives a little backfire and that is it. Timing belt is ok and key is in tact on shaft. Also have spark. What could have happened? Did something shift inside to stop cord from snapping back? Any suggestions? There was only a 90 day warranty and that has expired so I am stuck.

  • macxx
    7 years ago

    I had the same experience with a Honda GVC 160. Turned out they have a problem with stuck exhaust valves that don't fully close because of deposits building up on the valve stem. Problem is, the head is cast as part of the cylinder. Remove the valve cover and the exhaust rocker arm and spring and keeper. Be careful that the valve doesn't fall into the cylinder, then you have to disassemble the entire engine! Then remove the muffler and, grasping the end of the valve stem under the valve cover with a plier or similar and pushing the valve just a little way open, stick a really small file or other kind of tool you can scrape the deposits off of the exhaust valve into the exhaust port and, rotating the valve stem with the pliers, scrape the deposits off of the valve stem. I did that and compression returned (the valve sticking open is why it turned over so easily) and the engine ran fine. But it only ran about 1 tank of gas and happened again. Maybe using some injector cleaner in the gas would help, or running 89 octane. Don't know. Good luck!

  • User
    7 years ago

    Thank you macxx. Looks like I have some work to do. I found one posting on You Tube where the Exhaust Valve Rocker was cracked causing the same problem. I was hesitant to buy a refurbished unit although it was $200. 00 less than a new one. I will let you know how it is running when I finish the project. It may take me a while. Thanks again!

  • macxx
    7 years ago

    I had read that, also. The engine is really easy to work on. The valve springs are soft enuf that you can depress the keeper against the spring easily with your fingers. Just watch so that valve doesn't fall into the cyl! I guess that particular series of Honda engines is known for that sticky valve problem, but I haven't read any long term cure for it. I did the valve cleaning and got it reassembled in maybe 1/2 hour. Good luck.

  • User
    7 years ago

    Sounds great. I mentioned this problem to a friend and he is excited to look into this probably on Monday. He was amazed it had a Timing Belt. I changed rings on an older Honda lawn mower a few years ago, but did not get Cam in right place. It only had one mark and I failed to mark the other location. It shoots flames 2 inches out the exhaust and fragmented the rusty muffler. It was kind of neat. I am not sure which way to move gear. I think it is a GPX motor or something like that. Can't remember off hand. Maybe I will work on it again. I am an amature doing this stuff. Thanks again for you help.

  • User
    7 years ago

    macxx. Here is an update. Got the Honda GCV 190 running. Exhaust Rocker Arm was cracked. Welded it. The Valve was sticking do to narrow valve guide. Honed it out a little and works great. Also cleaned up valve while dissassembled. Tore the Oil Seal on shaft though putting back together, so I have to get one because it leaks.

  • User
    5 years ago

    Im in the same boat with my GCV 190 engine on my power washer. new gas, cleaned carb, new plug (and verified spark) and still will not start. If I spray a little starting fluid in there it only backfires out the exhaust. I keep seeing the valves being stuck open. I removed the valve cover and was able to push both valves in. Can anyone think of anything else or better explain what to look for under the valve cover?? Any help is appreciated.

  • tomplum
    5 years ago

    The norm is that the stems get sticky and the springs don't pull them forward quick enough. With the valve cover off, work the valves back and forth using a cleaner or penetrating oil in the stem area. Some use a heat gun. Note that if the cover had become dented, that it could be preventing the valve from fully closing.

  • Aravot Luso
    5 years ago

    I had the same problem with a Honda GVC 160. It is 5 years old. I replaced spark plug, air filter and changed oil. It will not turn on . I have spark, I checked multiple times. I installed Recoil starter without cove(it was hanging on side) and I am able to turn on multiple times. I thought problem is resolved, I installed cover then recoil starter, I cannot turn on, as soon I remove the cover, it turns on with no problem. Any idea how cover is effecting turning Lawn mower on?

  • 300ft_anin
    5 years ago

    hi, there's a kill wire hooked to the coil that could be loose or the cover piece is pinching it? the engine cover shouldn't keep the engine from starting?

  • Kurt L
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    I went through all of these steps, even replaced the carburetor. I had to order two packages of the gasket kits to get all of the different I needed. I also replaced the two long bolts with threaded rods that were approximately 4" long (I added lock tight on the engine side) then I could check each part as I put it on.

    It is maddening to know you did everything and it starts up and mows then it won't start at all. It also seems to lose power as you mow.

    The solution (for me):

    The last thing I did was replace the fuel line. No gas coming out of the tank. What!?. I opened the gas cap and the gas shot out. I left the cap a little loose and mowed the yard. Staring and stopping with no issues and lots of power! Lawn is mowed. Now I'm gong to find out how the tank is vented so I can fix that issue.

  • 1saxman
    2 years ago

    Get a new cap. Cap venting goes bad for various reasons and its not even worth trouble-shooting.