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snapper rear engine rider

Posted by yardman75 SC (My Page) on
Tue, Jun 16, 09 at 17:48

I have a snapper that I picked up for 100 dollars and invested only 8 dollars in some nuts and bolts for the blade and some oil. I also took some parts off an old front engine rider I had that had a similar motor on it. The coil underneath the flywheel on the snapper was a dual circuit and bad. I put the other coil I had off of another motor and now with a tester when the engine is running, there is current coming out of the circuit. The circuit that works has only one wire coming out from it and I need to know if that wire should go back to the switch or can I run it directly to the positive side of the battery? Someone on here said that the red wire from the dual circuit should go back to the switch. That didn't work. Tested the dual circuit with a tester and nothing went to the battery. Same is said with the single circuit. There is current, so, what would some of you do? There is no pull start on the engine, just electric start. This is kind of an old snapper made probably in the early to mid eighties. Handlebars on the front and a center lever to engage the blades. It has the old deck adjusting handle that just goes down and up catching in notches. You can even back it up in reverse without having to disengage the blades. The model number is 30083s. If you go to snapper you can see what kind it is by typing in the model number and looking at the parts list manuals. Unfortunately there is no wiring diagrams on that website that state what to do with the single circuit wire and where it should go. I have the push button start and the on/off switch is on the steering column. It works fine. Just flip the switch to the on and push the button and it starts right up. Sometimes even without using the choke. The mower deck is sensitive and the tires do have to be set spot on with air pressure in order to get an even cut. This is a 30 inch deck and according to snapper there is no way to adjust the deck to make it level. I like the mower. When you engage the blade to cut, you have dual pedals on a single bar or axle that holds the engaging lever in place. All you have to do is lift up the heels on your feet and it disengages the blade. Seriously, this is old school cutting to what I have been accustomed to cutting with. I actually like using it. No smoke when the engine is running and it gets good mileage when cutting. When looking up the mower on different websites for parts, it does say that maybe the mower came with an 8 horsepower engine. There is an 11.5 horsepower on it right now. At any rate, it works and I can put it in 5th gear, and it goes as fast as a front engine mower in 4th or 5th gear. It even cuts in 5th gear without missing strands of grass or those pesty dandelions. On my dad's Troy Bilt that is only a year or so old, it has a tough time with the dandelions. I have to let the Troy Bilt overlap a little to finish cutting the dandelions. The blade on the snapper doesn't spin as fast as the dual blade 42inch cuts, but it does spin fast enough to cut the grass good. Even in tough tall grass like in a dog pin, that snapper goes and only loses a little engine rpm. At any rate, just the answer to the previous question about the single circuit wire is all I need to know about. I just wanted to share some information about the snapper I got. To think that a lawn mower repair shop wouldn't have a decent rider for sale for less than 250. He told me good luch finding one for 150. That was some good luch he gave me. Thanks for the information. I am sure glad that I was able to work on the snapper with my dad and spend some time together. I have learned much about mowers from working with him. We had never really worked on many lawn mowers with the single or dual circuits. Most of what we worked on were the points type push lawnmowers with recoils. We even had a few front engine riders in the eighties that were recoil starts. One of them had the chain drive and the other one had a disc drive. Dad would adjust the carburetors on them to run like the engine had a mild cam in it. He said when he was working with carburetors growing up and in the garage before I was born, that was how you did it. The only time it ran like it had a mild cam was when it was on low idle. When you gave it more throttle it smoothed out and ran like you wouldn't believe. But those were old school mowers. Sometimes the recoil on those riders would snap back and it felt like my arms were going to pop out of their sockets. Those were good times. I was 12 or 13 at that time and had to stand on the rear fenders and lean forward and use not only arm strength but a little body weight to pull on those old mowers. Thanks for the information......

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: snapper rear engine rider

Well didn't read all you post but as far as the single wire goes, yes, it should be DC current for charging the battery.

The charging wire on SOME riding mowers and law tractors goes back thru the positive wire of the switch. Yours only has a kill wire to the switch, a ground wire.

Walt Conner

RE: snapper rear engine rider

This is an update...the snapper is running and charging fine. The single wire from the circuit went to the positive side of the push button and now the engine charges the battery. Thanks for all the comments and help.

RE: snapper rear engine rider

Anyone know where the red wire from the interlok diode goes on an older snapper rer with push button start & no solenoid?

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