If you can find ethanol free fuel, it might be wise to go ahead and use it in your new mower. The carburetors on small engines tend to accumulate residual gum and varnish, that is present in gasoline as a contaminant. The carb will work better and last longer if you are able to run it dry when finished mowing. This requires a fuel valve between the gas tank and the engine, and most mowers do not have this feature.

I only use stabilizer the last couple mowings of the season (never sure which is the last until the next one is in the Spring)
I do fill my tank to the brim after each mowing to eliminate dead air space that can "breathe" moisture laden air into the tank as the temperature fluctuates.

Typically, the mower starts the first or second pull in the Spring.
I Use 10% Ethanol fuel.

With 10% and higher) Ethanol it's important to use the new Sta-Bil that's made to eliminate corrosion associated with alcohol fuels. You could also use the Sta-Bil Marine super-concentrate for Ethanol fuels which is my favorite. Simply add it to your gas can when you buy mower gas and you never have to worry about when to use it - use it all the time. Using it just for a mower and your 2-cycle fuel, an 8-oz bottle would last for years at 1 oz:10 gal. I actually use it in everything including our cars and truck because we're mandated to use E10. Keeps fuel systems clean and catalytic converters sweet.
Why do Ethanol fuels corrode? Because any moisture in the fuel goes into solution because of the alcohol instead of staying in the bottom of the fuel tank. It stays in contact with fuel system parts constantly which allows corrosion to begin.
Use regular Sta-Bil if you can buy straight gas. Same as above, put it in the gas can when buying gas. Keeps carbs and engines clean and gas fresh, including in winter storage.

Appreciate the replies so far. My mower (honda) does have a fuel switch so I guess that is a nice feature.

Will continue to read up so I can sort out whats best for me. I think a stabilizer in the can the whole season would be easiest. Currently I only buy a gallon at a time for the mower but in florida we literally mow 40+ weeks a year. In Decemeber I mow once a month until maybe Feb after that its back to about every week.

Find a spot outside where you can store the gas can in the shade. With the near constant use, I wouldnt use Stabil. Instead , I would install a shut off . I also add a cap of MMO to the gas. I think the shut off is the way to go. My old sit down starts every spring. I just open the petcock and push the button.

My two cents. If you use your unit on a regular basis and use ethanol fuel up prior to 30 days then nothing is required . If you store ethanol fuel longer then a good fuel stabilizer is required . I have standardized to Star*tron available at Walmart or Napa . In a perfect world I would go with Non Ethanol fuel always on small engine equipment whenever possible Happy cutting and enjoy your New Mower.

I would do both as well. I don't know any gas stations in my area that does not sell fuel with out ethanol. I have been buy the pre mix fuel in a can form TSC or Wal-Mart. Cost more but it runs way better and the equipment starts way easier after sitting.

Looks like the EPA wants to raise the problem up to 15%.
In that case every thing related to food will also rise.

Both. Blonde OR brunette- why choose? :) The additive is cheap and easy to use as anything.

FWIW, I agree with tomplum, it's cheap and easy. I've gone down the road of tearing apart carbs, soaking, blowing out with compressed air, reaming orifices, etc. Also had some success with SeaFoam to resolve limited issues, but that's gotten very expensive. Now, I buy the big containers of Stabil and when I empty a gascan, add that so it's there when I fill up. No worries and no problems. Just out of curiosity, is the "non ethanol" gas more expensive than what most of us have to put up with?

Ev

With my old junk, I add MMO for top cylinder lube. Thats the excuse, the reason is mostly that I like its smell. Every spring, the Inty starts easily on whatever gas was in the tank when I shut it down in the fall. I haven't had to work on the carb in some time. Only major change was using the shutoff to run the carb dry after every use.

Appreciate all the replies. I asked around here locally and got mixed reviews - like this thread. All of which has helped me greatly. I use the ethanol free gas since its readily available to me as well as a stabilizer. Overkill? Possibly, but its just a couple of bucks every few months and I feel better :)

Thanks again for all the help.

I live in Florida and I purchased a Toro lawn mower. Even though I use the ethanol free gas, within 3 months, my carburetor was plugged and I had to pay $100 to clean it. According to Home Depot, you must run the engine dry after every use to protect the carburetor. Any comments will be appreciated.

Think of it this way. Fuel deterioration accelerates when it is exposed to air. The lighter compounds of the fuel that tend to evaporate first are also what aids the fuel in igniting in a cold engine. Think of them as the more volatile components of the fuel. Your carburetor is vented, whether internally or externally. So it ends up that where you need this fresh volatile fuel the most, those compounds have slowly been deteriorating as time goes on.

What does running the engine dry actually do? Less than you think. Mainly because the carburetor isn't empty. Plus carburetors that have the main jets that lay down inside the level of the fuel really have issues when they are allowed to sit for an extended period of time. In many carbs, the lower fuel level of a "run dry" carb is right about where the jet is. If the fuel level was left alone, the surface of the evaporating fuel would actually be above the main.

The absolute best care is to treat the fuel with a stabilizer consistently, keep the fuel in a sealed container in a temperate location. Buy the no alcohol stuff if you want, but really you are buying premium fuel which you don't usually need or in some cases want.

Many times the reason for a no start is simply the hard to ignite fuel rather than a plugged orifice in the carb. So those that dump the old gas out of the tank and put fresh in are generally still disappointed as they still don't have the fresh fuel where they need it. The fuel system should be drained from the bottom until the fresh fuel gets where it is needed. Of course there are times when you still need to deal with condensation or dirt where it doesn't belong as well.

I run SeaFoam in my gas all season long and don't drain or fill before winter storage. Haven't had an issue yet. I do only use Shell gasoline in my OPE.